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Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II The second Micro Four Thirds camera that offers phase detect focusing so you can use Four Thirds DSLR lenses normally as well a Micro Four Thirds lenses.

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blu-by-u blu-by-u is offline
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Another stupid question.

How do I get the EVF to display like a DSLR?

I have In "Gear", Custom Menu, select D2 and change the Live View Boost setting to Off. The Live View Boost for M mode is set to On2. ISO is also set to Manual

Yet in the EVF is boosted and I always have to double check the histogram. Is there any way that it will be dark?
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Re: Another stupid question.

If you set exposure compensation to underexpose, the EVF will get dark. Try it. Isn't that what you really want? This is the default.

You have set it to boost in M mode, which is sensible, but that won't seem like a DSLR.

There is OVF mode, you could try that, but I don't think that will help you.

What exactly do you want? An actual DSLR will show a dark view when it is dark, you might be barely able to see anything, but the photo could be greatly overexposed. In other words the viewfinder image bears no relation to the resulting photo. Surely you don't want that?

I think you are better off with the default settings.
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Re: Another stupid question.

I tried the OVF setting when I first got my EM1 but didn't like it so went back to the default mode which I do really like. I do watch the histogram for highlights but generally I use the EVF to judge the exposure via half pressing the shutter expose and then recompose the image. Can't remember why I didn't like the OVF mode view now though it was so long ago.
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Re: Another stupid question.

Em1ii is in front of me. At D2, Live View Boost, Manual Shooting {OFF}, Bulb {On1}, Live Composite{OFF}, Others {OFF}.

What else can I set to make it like a DSLR? If it's dark, don't boost. It does not go full dark if under exposed but say -5 in a darken room but the photo is totally dark.
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Re: Another stupid question.

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Originally Posted by blu-by-u View Post
Em1ii is in front of me. At D2, Live View Boost, Manual Shooting {OFF}, Bulb {On1}, Live Composite{OFF}, Others {OFF}.

What else can I set to make it like a DSLR? If it's dark, don't boost. It does not go full dark if under exposed but say -5 in a darken room but the photo is totally dark.

It is sensible. It reckons that even if you want to underexpose so much, it should still show (just) what you are looking at. Otherwise there is no point in looking at the viewfinder.

What you are asking for is not what a DSLR shows. The DSLR gives an optical viewfinder that shows what the subject looks like, which bears no connection to the photo, which may be under or over exposed. The DSLR would show you the room, regardless of the -5 EC.

I think you are asking for something else - a viewfinder that shows you exactly how the photo will look. The Olympus with its default setting does do roughly that. The histogram gives you more. And I also set my camera to show the over and underexposed areas in highlighted blocks of colour in the viewfinder, something far better than what a DSLR can do.
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Re: Another stupid question.

I think I should have enable that highlight and lowlight warning on the camera. I had that in my other Em1.
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Re: Another stupid question.

Isn't it the S-OVF setting in the EVF menu? That's supposed to simulate an OVF. Why you'd want to though I don't know?
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Re: Another stupid question.

The strange part is that when I moved to the OMD system many years ago, the setup of the OVF mimics that of the mirrored cameras. If it's too dark, it does not boost the screen if it's the Boost is set to OFF. I have set the EM1ii now I currently own to OFF but my screen is still boosted when I under expose. It's not the real feel (look) of a mirrored camera.

Why am I complaining is that during the partial eclipse of the moon, on the LCD, it shows correct exposure. I could zoom in to see the sharpness of the shot and the craters and etc but when I off load those photos on the PC from the SD, it's horribly under exposed, there were no features. I had to stack up to 5 images, up the exposure by at least 2 to 5 times.

Why is the OVF boost set to OFF still boost the EVF in under exposed situations?
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Re: Another stupid question.

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Originally Posted by blu-by-u View Post
The strange part is that when I moved to the OMD system many years ago, the setup of the OVF mimics that of the mirrored cameras. If it's too dark, it does not boost the screen if it's the Boost is set to OFF. I have set the EM1ii now I currently own to OFF but my screen is still boosted when I under expose. It's not the real feel (look) of a mirrored camera.

Why am I complaining is that during the partial eclipse of the moon, on the LCD, it shows correct exposure. I could zoom in to see the sharpness of the shot and the craters and etc but when I off load those photos on the PC from the SD, it's horribly under exposed, there were no features. I had to stack up to 5 images, up the exposure by at least 2 to 5 times.

Why is the OVF boost set to OFF still boost the EVF in under exposed situations?
Ahh I see what you mean. I have too found that, I got caught out at a motor racing event when the images looked good in the EVF before I shot, but on reviewing they were under exposed. I don't know when that changed either, however after discovering this and playing about it does appear that you only get a real view in EVF in terms of exposure is using manual mode, if you're in auto or semi auto (such as aperture priority) it doesn't show the true exposure. When I discovered this I tried it out on my Nikon Z7 and that behaves the same, and I find the behaviour of both a bit odd and counter intuitive.

What I have found though is that if I'm in one of the semi auto modes whilst the EVF doesn't show under exposure something will be flashing such as the f number, and that's an indication that the exposure is under/over. I would rather it physically show me in the image though, and I shouldn't have to have had ruined shots and tried various things to figure it out.
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Re: Another stupid question.

When doing tricky stuff only trust the histogram. Well worth displaying that in the viewfinder.
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Re: Another stupid question.

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Originally Posted by Growltiger View Post
When doing tricky stuff only trust the histogram. Well worth displaying that in the viewfinder.
But this what I've found odd, at these times that it's massively underexposed the histogram hasn't shown this, so has been unreliable
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Re: Another stupid question.

Histogram will only show what you have selected in the metering. So If you have selected full matrix and is shooting in a dark environment, it will show totally underexposed but the EVF will still display a good exposure. So in a SPOT selection, it could be another drastic swing in the histogram.
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Re: Another stupid question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blu-by-u View Post
Histogram will only show what you have selected in the metering. So If you have selected full matrix and is shooting in a dark environment, it will show totally underexposed but the EVF will still display a good exposure. So in a SPOT selection, it could be another drastic swing in the histogram.
I've had occasions where the histogram has shown a nicely exposed image, but the final image was seriously underexposed. It's almost as though it only shows you the real 'picture' if you're within certain bounds but when underexposed by 3 stops or so it doesn't reflect the final outcome.
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Re: Another stupid question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snerkler View Post
I've had occasions where the histogram has shown a nicely exposed image, but the final image was seriously underexposed. It's almost as though it only shows you the real 'picture' if you're within certain bounds but when underexposed by 3 stops or so it doesn't reflect the final outcome.
That's what i am getting at. The strange thing is the LCD review show perfect.
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