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  #16  
Old 10th June 2011
birdboy birdboy is offline
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Nick

These are really good pictures, I only wish I could appraoch that standard with the combo.

Were these taken handheld F7.1 and IS1? Which focus mode SAF CAF MF and which focus point.

Its when I see pictures such as yours that I question if my setup is faulty.

Thanks
John
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  #17  
Old 10th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Quote:
Originally Posted by birdboy View Post
Ulfric

Yes it was the same lens. I am begining to think that the problem could be with using CAF and that SAF would have been a better choice for that subject.

Thanks

John
That was my first thought. I think it is a bigger ask to use C-AF with the EC-20 (as a darker lens combination) & did I read it correct, are you also using fine point focusing? I would think that is better when picking out a bird from amongst the leaves (& only with S-AF), but I would use the twin cross sensors (normal sensitivity) for normal shots for a more reliable chance of getting focus lock.

Hope you get better results with all these suggestions from everybody.

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  #18  
Old 10th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Quote:
Originally Posted by birdboy View Post
Nick


Were these taken handheld F7.1 and IS1? Which focus mode SAF CAF MF and which focus point.


Thanks
John
A summary of the exif is in the gallery (the little camera symbol). My normal mode of shooting is C-AF single point with sensitivity set to small, can't remember which focus point was used. These would all have been taken handheld with IS 1.

Nick
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Old 10th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

To all I would like to say a thank you for your help in helping me understanding what I had thought was a faulty camera.

Putting what I had digested from your replies into camera settings and blessed with a glorious sunny evening I took the following with the 50-200mm SWD plus EC20, handheld with IS1.

While its not up to Nicks example with the 90-2500mm + EC20 lens I think this is the best I can espect with this combo?


Thanks again
John

The Exit info is;
Hardware Info
Model E3
Camera ID Olympus Digital Camera
Lens Information Olympus 50-200mm F2.8-3.5SWD + EC20
Software used Olympus Master 2.30W

Shooting Information
Shooting Mode A (Aperature Priority
Focal Length 400.0mm
Focal Length(equ) 800.0mm
Shutter 1/250 sec
F. No F7.0
Exposure Comp 0.0EV
Flash OFF
Whitebalance Auto
PICTURE MODE NATURAL
Saturation 0
Contrast 0
Sharpness 0
Gradation AUTO
Colour Space Adobe RGB (1998)
Metering ModeESP(ESP+AF)
ISO Sentivity 640
Focus Mode Single AF
Macro Off
Drive Single frame
EXT. WB DETECT ON
Image Stability IS1
Attached Images
File Type: jpg blackbird.jpg (87.3 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg Blackbird uncropped.jpg (81.0 KB, 18 views)
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  #20  
Old 10th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

I still think you should be getting significantly better from that combination. Does anyone have some samples from the 50-200mm/EC20 they can post for John?
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  #21  
Old 10th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuiko View Post
I still think you should be getting significantly better from that combination. Does anyone have some samples from the 50-200mm/EC20 they can post for John?
I can probably come up with a couple
Little Bee-Eater - Merops orientalis taken from the back of a stationary but rocking Landrover with folks moving about in it. Isn't IS clever
Exposure 0.013 sec (1/80)
Aperture f/7.0
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 200


Malabar Pied Hornbills - Anthracoceros coronatus, cropped and taken from a moving Landrover in Yala National Park, Sri Lanka.
Exposure 0.002 sec (1/640)
Aperture f/7.0
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 200


Spotted Deer - Cervus axis
Exposure 0.025 sec (1/40)
Aperture f/7.0
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 200


There's probably quite a few more of varying quality in the Sri Lanka gallery from my signature below.
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  #22  
Old 10th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Bill Wow!!

I feel very depressed now and convinced there is something not working properly.

To recap.

I have tried S-AF C-AF MF
I have tried AF area; single normal, single small, five points.

I have tried 50-200mmswd with / without EC20 and the 12-60mm SWD.

I have tried Handheld with IS off and IS1 and on a tripod using RM-1.

I have tried mirror lock on at 2sec 3 sec 10 sec.

None of these appears to have made a significant difference. I get more or less the same standard image. It shows up worst when using the EC20.

I have not applied any post picture tweaking.

I just want a sharp picture in focus.

So my test is this. Starling subject 4m away using 50-200mm SWD on a tripod (RSP CF with Gitzo head 2180) IS off. Focus using S-AF, single point normal, RM-1 to take shot. i.e rock solid camera no hands.

And here is the result. Would this be acceptable or should I expect better definition, I suspect not.
Starling full frame.jpg
Starling 1 to 1 crop.jpg

Thanks again
John
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  #23  
Old 10th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Well the starlings look reasonable, I wonder if a slightly higher shutter speed may have helped as these are moving targets.

The following three are taken with the 50-200 (mk1) ec2.0, but on an E-PL1.



This first was handheld with manual focus and taken as test, as I was not happy with the performance of the camera/lens combination



Same shot with C-AF



and a 100% crop of the second shot.

All just converted from RAW.

I hope this demonstrates what the combination of the 50-200 and the ec2.0 is capable of, and also shows the advantage of tests in good light of static objects.

Nick
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  #24  
Old 10th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Have you carried out a firmware update?

I was having very similar issues with the E30 and 70-300. All other lenses were crisp and sharp but the images from the 70-300 were exactly as you are displaying. A firmware update resolved the issue for me, thankfully, and it was very easy to do.

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  #25  
Old 11th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Quote:
Originally Posted by birdboy View Post
Focus using S-AF, single point normal, RM-1 to take shot. i.e rock solid camera no hands.

Thanks again
John
That's not necessarily the best way to test a long lens, the mirror flipping up can cause vibration.
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  #26  
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

OK Dave mirror lock test.

I took the following picture using just the 50-200mm SWD lens on the tripod using remote control RM-1 and a mirror lock of 3secs @200mm 1/1250 sec F3.5 ISO100 and normal single point focus. I also took manual focus and it seemed to make no difference.
F3.5
Mirror lock f3.5.jpg

For some reason I then took a picture changing the aperature to F11 @200mm 1/320sec ISO 320.

How does letting in less light give a sharper picture!
mirror lock f11.jpg

So I repeated the test with the EC20 @400mm 1/320 sec F7 ISO 160.

Same poor result.
mirror lock EC20 f7.jpg


Next at F11 with EC20 @400 1/250sec F11 ISO 500

What a difference.
mirror lock EC20 f11.jpg

Does this indicate a problem with the aperture or is there a another explaination? So how does letting in less light give a sharper picture am I being thick and missing something?

Thanks
John
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  #27  
Old 11th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

So do you have a protective filter on the lens?
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

A smaller aperture creates a wider depth of field, so that on a subject like this more of it will appear to be in focus and also it will help disguise focusing errors by the camera/lens combination. Also stopping down usually improves the lens performance, although by f11 (on Four Thirds) quality is normally starting to be compromised by diffraction.

Having said all that, the 50-200mm is usually remarkable sharp even wide open, although stopping down a tad would normally be recommended with the EC20. For whatever reason, your camera/lens are not performing as we would expect. The only way to solve this might be to borrow another lens and/or body from someone local or bite the bullet and hire from the forum, in order to determine which is causing the problem.
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Quote:
Originally Posted by David M View Post
So do you have a protective filter on the lens?
Yes Dave I have a Hoya UV filter mainly to protect the lens.

John
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Old 11th June 2011
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Re: Is my E3 faulty?

Do you have a Rocket Blower or similar?
I've had some strange out of focus shots in the past like this and cured them by blowing a bit of fluff out of the AF sensor in the bottom of the camera body.
It is in the bottom of the throat, just behind the lens mount, below the mirror.
You may need to CAREFULLY lift the mirror a bit to get access.
N.B. I mean manually lift the mirror, don't use the camera's sensor cleaning option oryou risk blowing dust onto the SSWF.
Only use a hand powered blower, not a compressed air can or you may knock something out of alignment, and don't use a brush.
Also you didn't mention the AF mode you were using for the roof shots.
It may help if you could post images which retain the full exif info
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