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Night photography

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  • Night photography

    Tonight is the first time I have ventured out to specifically try shooting in the dark. I went up to Southwater which is a new development of restaurants and park in our town, Telford.

    These are 8 second exposures shot at ISO100 on my E3 using a 17.5-45mm kit lens. I had anti shock switched on too.

    Should I be using a filter?
    Is it possible to stop the red white and blue pixels?
    How do I stop the lights blowing out and get the star effect?
    Should I adjust exposure? These were shot 0


    Southwater Telford Town Centre Shropshire LTM by Tim J Preston, on Flickr


    Southwater Telford Town Centre Shropshire Night 2 by Tim J Preston, on Flickr

    Many Thanks
    Thanks
    Tim

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/33153464@N07/

  • #2
    Re: Night photography

    Hi Tim,

    That's two very nice night shots. Regarding the coloured pixels, do you have Noise Reduction turned on? This uses a dark frame subtraction technique to remove the coloured pixels and should not be confused with the Noise Filter.
    John

    "A hundredth of a second here, a hundredth of a second there — even if you put them end to end, they still only add up to one, two, perhaps three seconds, snatched from eternity." ~ Robert Doisneau

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    • #3
      Re: Night photography

      No I don't John, I have now found it though. I am also kicking myself because I clearly remember it being mentioned in the tuition video too.

      Thank you.
      Thanks
      Tim

      http://www.flickr.com/photos/33153464@N07/

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Night photography

        I know nothing of night photography Tim, but for what it's worth I really like the first a lot!

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Night photography

          Thank you, I stumbled across a tuition video on YouTube and I thought I would give it a go. I'm quite pleased for a first proper attempt.
          Thanks
          Tim

          http://www.flickr.com/photos/33153464@N07/

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Night photography

            A very nice couple of shots Tim, they look very clean images at the displayed resolution.
            Regards Huw


            Olympus equipment
            Capture One Pro
            My flickr

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            • #7
              Re: Night photography

              Two nice shots & if Noise Reduction was turned on (usually left at the default Auto setting enables it for long exposures) would be even better. To get the 'Starlight Effect' with lights in a night shot you need to stop down the lens. I would try f8, f12 & f16 to see how much you need. You might even take a shot at f22 to see how it comes out too, although diffraction may work against you with the overall result. Obviously the shutter time is going to be longer, so consideration of the subject movement needs to be taken into account too.
              Ross
              I fiddle with violins (when I'm not fiddling with a camera).
              Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ross-the-fiddler/
              Cameras: OM-D E-M1 & Mk II, Olympus Stylus 1, OM-D E-M5.
              Lenses: M.ZD7-14mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD12-40mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD40-150mm f2.8 PRO Lens, MC-14, MC-20, M.ZD45mm f1.8, M.ZD12-50, M.ZD60 Macro, M.ZD75-300 Mk II, MMF-3, ZD14-54 II, Sigma 150mm F2.8 APO Macro DG HSM.
              Flashes: FL36R X2, FL50R, FL50.
              Software: Capture One Pro 10 (& Olympus Viewer 3).

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Night photography

                Two very nice images indeed Tim and to my eye at least look "clean" at the displayed resolution. I particularly like the vibrant neon reflections in the first image... a wash of 'artistic brush strokes'. Being a little critical but only from a constructive point I would clone out the bright white reflection near the boulders, yes its a natural reflection of the illuminated roof but it does 'draw the eye' to it, covering it with my finger makes a big difference to the overall balance of the image. But like I said a very nice image and one I would be very pleased to have captured.

                I like the second too, perhaps if one or two 'ghostly' figures had strolled through on a slow exposure it would put the icing on the cake but hey there's never anyone around when you want them to be

                As Ross said stopping down to f8 or further would help produce the 'star points' sparkle a bit more, but honestly they are two lovely night time captures with great vibrant colours.

                Kind regards, Simon
                “Sharpness is a bourgeois concept”
                ― Henri Cartier-Bresson

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Night photography

                  Two nice shots. You can of course buy star filters to get that pinpoint light star effect.
                  Cameras: E-M5, E-PM2, OM40, OM4Ti
                  Lenses (M.Zuiko Digital): 7-14mm/F2.8, 12-40mm/F2.8, 40-150mm/F2.8+TC1.4x, 12-50mm/F3.5-6.3, 14-42mm/F3.5-5.6 EZ, M.ZD 40-150 F4-5.6 R, 75-300mm/F4.8-6.7 Mk1, 12mm/F2, 17mm/F1.8
                  Lenses (OM Zuiko): 50mm/F1.2, 24mm/F2, 35mm/F2.8 shift
                  Lenses (OM Fit): Vivitar Series II 28-105mm/F2.8-3.8, Sigma 21-35mm/F3.4-4.2, Sigma 35-70mm/F2.8-4, Sigma 75-200mm/F2.8-3.5, Vivitar Series II 100-500mm/F5.6-8.0, Centon 500mm/F8 Mirror
                  Learn something new every day

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                  • #10
                    Re: Night photography

                    A good couple of shots, with good white balance. Because of the bright lights in a photo like this, I would avoid the use of filters (unless you want the star filter effect) as they could easily show ghosting and unwanted reflections. Most pp software has "filters" which could give you the star effect on pinpoints of light.
                    Stephen

                    A camera takes a picture. A photographer makes a picture

                    Fuji X system, + Leica and Bronica film

                    My Flickr site

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                    • #11
                      Re: Night photography

                      Tim, I hope you don't mind, but when I had (still have but don't use), my E520 & was on a photography class several years ago, we were encouraged to try some night photography (since the class was at night anyhow ) & this was an exercise in that starlight effect using the stopped down aperture with this set at f22. I had saved the RAW thankfully & was able to improve on my initial settings selected (or not changed) in ignorance at the time. I am not sure if I had the Noise Reduction on for this one either, but it will give you an idea of what is possible by stopping down.

                      Ross
                      I fiddle with violins (when I'm not fiddling with a camera).
                      Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ross-the-fiddler/
                      Cameras: OM-D E-M1 & Mk II, Olympus Stylus 1, OM-D E-M5.
                      Lenses: M.ZD7-14mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD12-40mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD40-150mm f2.8 PRO Lens, MC-14, MC-20, M.ZD45mm f1.8, M.ZD12-50, M.ZD60 Macro, M.ZD75-300 Mk II, MMF-3, ZD14-54 II, Sigma 150mm F2.8 APO Macro DG HSM.
                      Flashes: FL36R X2, FL50R, FL50.
                      Software: Capture One Pro 10 (& Olympus Viewer 3).

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Night photography

                        A smaller aperture would give a much nicer rendering of street lights. My main comment relates to the time of day that you took the images. It is generally accepted that the best time to do 'night' shots is when there is still some colour left in the sky (ideally a deep blue), which will give better definition to subjects such as buildings, etc. These can otherwise be lost in the darkness of the sky.
                        Dave

                        E-M1 Mk2, Pen F, HLD-9, 17, 25, 45, 60 macro, 12-40 Pro, 40-150 Pro, 12-50, 40-150, 75-300, MC-14, MMF-3 (all micro 4/3rds), 7-14 (4/3rds), 50, 135 (OM), GoPro Hero 3, Novo/Giottos/ Manfrotto supports. Lowepro, Tamrac, Manfrotto, and Billingham bags.

                        External Competition Secretary, Cwmbran PS & Welsh Photographic Federation Judge

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Night photography

                          I like the shots, but turn off anti shock as the camera will try to correct movement that is not there, assuming that you used a tripod. If you didn't, then you have done remarkably well!
                          sigpicDave

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                          • #14
                            Re: Night photography

                            Hi there Dave!

                            I think you are getting confused between the anti-shock ( delay after the mirror comes up) and the image stabilisation (which certainly should be off on a tripod!)

                            Too much use of these new-fangled mirrorless cameras leads to us forgetting about the mirrors on the old E-series.

                            Cheers,

                            Ralph.

                            Ps It's only because I was playing with my E-1 yesterday not the E-M1 that I remembered!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Night photography

                              Originally posted by Ross the fiddler View Post
                              Tim, I hope you don't mind, but when I had (still have but don't use), my E520 & was on a photography class several years ago, we were encouraged to try some night photography (since the class was at night anyhow ) & this was an exercise in that starlight effect using the stopped down aperture with this set at f22. I had saved the RAW thankfully & was able to improve on my initial settings selected (or not changed) in ignorance at the time. I am not sure if I had the Noise Reduction on for this one either, but it will give you an idea of what is possible by stopping down.

                              Ross I will need to check when I'm home but I think this was F8 as you say,the exposure was 30sec,just as an example I haven't edited them in any way whatsoever.

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