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I tend to set this lens at f5.6 and roughly zone focus a metre or so in front, and then forget about focussing - as I recall the hyperfocal distance is just under 3/4 of a metre at f5.6!
I must say I haven't noticed soft edges, although I guess that might happen at full aperture, plus I'm not much of a pixel-peeper either.
I don't use it very often, but whenever I do I'm struck by how rectilinear it is.
Regards,
Mark
------------------------------ http://www.microcontrast.com
Too much Oly gear.
Panasonic GM5, 12-32, 12-35, 15. Laowa 7.5.
Assorted legacy lenses, plus a Fuji X70 & a Sony A7S.
Focus peaking is simply a visual measure of high edge contrast. It has a band of values over which it will work and that means it'll show when the focus is not perfect. It's better than nothing, but it's poor if focus precision is what you want. I think Olympus say as much in the manuals.
I find it useful with the 300 and 40-150 Pro when trying to focus on animals behind grasses and twigs. Magnified view is too wobbly at those focal lengths. Yes, you do need to pull focus to and fro and shoot quite a few images to be sure you’ve got some that are critically sharp, but I do find it easier with peaking than without.
I’m not so sure about using it with shorter focal lengths, though.
Regards,
Mark
------------------------------ http://www.microcontrast.com
Too much Oly gear.
Panasonic GM5, 12-32, 12-35, 15. Laowa 7.5.
Assorted legacy lenses, plus a Fuji X70 & a Sony A7S.
I have always used magnification over focus peaking, I think it is more reliable and the feedback about what is actually in focus as close to reality as possible.
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