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Sticking with the E-510 - problem

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  • Sticking with the E-510 - problem

    Right, after my previous post about possibly getting an E-620 to replace my E-510 I have decided to stick with the E-510 and instead invest in a new lens (50-200mm SWD)

    The problem I have with the E-510, especially when getting bug shots with the 70-300mm (and most other lenses) is I miss the focus.

    Take for example damsel fly shots, even with a tripod, and center point focus when I line up the middle dot bang on the head, half press the shutter to get focus, then fully press to take the pic the head is usually slightly out of focus.

    On most occasions the body, directly behind the head is in focus, not the head istelf, even though this was where the 'dot' was.

    Someone did post something on a thread recently (I think) about this.

    In itself this doesnt bother me as long as there is a work around. What tests can i do to determine the exact point where my camera is actually focusing, as it doesnt quite seem to be where the red 'dot' is?

    More often than not it's not going to matter, but when doing macro its really important!

    Regards

    Neil

  • #2
    Re: Sticking with the E-510 - problem

    When using the tripod, have you tried live view to focus? It might help as you can zoom right in.

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    • #3
      Re: Sticking with the E-510 - problem

      Sounds like slight backfocusing to me - not an inherent issue with E510 +70-300mm or any other lens AFAIK. Is this the thread that you were thinking of: http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthre...ht=front+focus

      Re-create the test as mentioned in the thread and if the back focus is consistent and repeatable then it may be a case of having to get Olympus to calibrate the camera & lens combos affected...

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      • #4
        Re: Sticking with the E-510 - problem

        On most occasions the body, directly behind the head is in focus, not the head istelf, even though this was where the 'dot' was.

        Someone did post something on a thread recently (I think) about this.
        I did mention there was a post possibly on another forum, that suggested having a definite sharp line against a plain background (could be a coloured thread across a black sheet of paper or whatever, just so long as there is a definite single focus line) & first with it on a horizontal plain, move the camera up & down while half pressing the shutter button each time to determine where the focus point is vertically. It needs to be checked from both directions (up & down) to see it. After that, turn the thread/focussing edge to vertical & pan the camera (L&R) looking for the point of focus on the horizontal plain. If you do all of that, you can either eliminate any issues with misaligned focus point(s) or make allowance for them & if they are wide of the spots in both directions & both plains or focus doesn't lock till having moved through the focus spots (in all 4 directions), then it is probably front or back focussing error issues instead. There are others here that would probably have the best advice on getting around that.

        Hope that helps,

        Ross
        Ross
        I fiddle with violins (when I'm not fiddling with a camera).
        Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ross-the-fiddler/
        Cameras: OM-D E-M1 & Mk II, Olympus Stylus 1, OM-D E-M5.
        Lenses: M.ZD7-14mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD12-40mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD40-150mm f2.8 PRO Lens, MC-14, MC-20, M.ZD45mm f1.8, M.ZD12-50, M.ZD60 Macro, M.ZD75-300 Mk II, MMF-3, ZD14-54 II, Sigma 150mm F2.8 APO Macro DG HSM.
        Flashes: FL36R X2, FL50R, FL50.
        Software: Capture One Pro 10 (& Olympus Viewer 3).

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Sticking with the E-510 - problem

          Thanks for that, I'll get on it

          Neil

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Sticking with the E-510 - problem

            Originally posted by roadkill_6mm View Post
            Thanks for that, I'll get on it

            Neil
            As Rocky says, forget any slight front/back focus issues with AF, and try live view (magnified to 5x) to pin-point the exact point of focus you want. You must have the camera tripod mounted though.

            Using AF IMO is a waste of time for insects. I have an E-510 that I used to use with a 50-200SWD & EC14 for dragonflies and damselflies (but sold it last year). You should get excellent results with this type of subject using the 70-300, as it is really a long-range macro lens (as well as a telephoto, obviously!)

            The only problem in my experience with damselflies is that it's hard to get both the front & back (L&R) eyes in focus simultaneously as depth of field is so shallow in close-up photography. Use a tripod and smaller aperture to increase DOF if you can.

            Re. your other thread, I found the AF with the E-510 and 50-200SWD with EC-14 extremely quick. Don't let anybody kid you into thinking that AF speed doesn't benefit from the SWD motor with your camera body.

            A DF taken with the 50-200SWD & EC-14:
            1/125 sec, ISO 200, F6.3



            Steve
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Re: Sticking with the E-510 - problem

              The problem I have with the E-510, especially when getting bug shots with the 70-300mm (and most other lenses) is I miss the focus.
              The best way that I have found for close ups of insects with the 70-300 lens (using OVF) is having the MF set (to maximum magnification), move the camera until focus is where you want it (& adjusting the zoom for the correct frame coverage). A monopod can be helpful to add some steadiness to it & if not using a flash, sequence shooting can be effective for this method (with one hopefully being in focus). Live view can be done similarly if glare isn't affecting the visibility of live view, but you need to remember that the refresh rate of live view is not real fast & can lose you the desired framing etc (when the bug moves). Live view with magnification is excellent for still life shots, such as plant/flowers, focusing through water droplets etc. & framing still needs to be checked but is not easy for insects on the move.

              The focus point check would still be worth doing if there are issues with more distant AF shots (where there is a larger DoF which is generally proportional to the focusing distance).

              I would love to see more of your close-ups.

              Ross
              Ross
              I fiddle with violins (when I'm not fiddling with a camera).
              Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ross-the-fiddler/
              Cameras: OM-D E-M1 & Mk II, Olympus Stylus 1, OM-D E-M5.
              Lenses: M.ZD7-14mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD12-40mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD40-150mm f2.8 PRO Lens, MC-14, MC-20, M.ZD45mm f1.8, M.ZD12-50, M.ZD60 Macro, M.ZD75-300 Mk II, MMF-3, ZD14-54 II, Sigma 150mm F2.8 APO Macro DG HSM.
              Flashes: FL36R X2, FL50R, FL50.
              Software: Capture One Pro 10 (& Olympus Viewer 3).

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Sticking with the E-510 - problem

                Thanks for the advice guys. I must admit I struggle when trying to focus in live view, it just doesn't appear quick enough and often the screen is difficult to see.

                Seems obvious when I'm sat here thinking about it but when I was last out I didn't even think about using manual focus as I thought I'd be too slow. Now I think about it all I need to do is let auto focus do most of the hard work then make any small adjustments with the focusing ring! Easy to think of when you're sat at home, but not something I thought about when I was out

                Still I seem to be learning something new each time I go out, which can't be a bad thing!!

                Regards

                neil

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