Below are some pictures and text explanations.
#1 Overview of the 600mm Skywatcher setup deployed on Manfrotto tripod with a gimbal head.
The clamps surrounding the optical tube are for an easy to unmount connection to the plate. You could drill holes in the tube and make a semi-permanent connection, saving some weight and achieving even lower centre of gravity.

#2 Camera attachment, focuser fully retracted.

#3 The needed items to connect the camera
From L to R:
4/3 - Nikon adapter (*)
Prime focuser DSLR adapter with Nikon fitting and undercut (**)
2" diameter 80mm extension tube with undercut (***)
(*) Reason for Nikon is that I already had a Nikon spotting scope with a DSLR adapter fitting Nikon.
(**) Can be substituted with a 2" M42 generic adapter + M42 - DSLR adapter. The prime focuser adapter is smaller.
(***) A minimum of 50mm length is recommended. 85 mm on my setup is the maximum length that will preserve focusing at infinity. Both 50mm and 80mm are standard lengths. 80mm will bring down closest focusing distance to about 6-7 meters.
Undercut is a safety measure to prevent the elements from disconnecting and risking dropping the camera, should the screws not be tight. The screws closest to camera are usually quite loose tightened in order to allow easy camera rotation.
#4 Focuser fully extended

#5 Front view showing front element (doublet achromat). The front can quite easily be unscrewed using hand force for accessing the elements.

#6 Front view with lens cap on. The central performation serves as a diaphragm, should that be wanted.

#7 Rear view showing the 2" barrel. As you can see there are no glass elements (except the front lens).

#8 Detail of gimbal head with Giotto quick release. I use a long plate, allowing perfect balance between the extremes: retracted focuser and fully extended with extra TC and extra extension tube.

I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have.
#1 Overview of the 600mm Skywatcher setup deployed on Manfrotto tripod with a gimbal head.
The clamps surrounding the optical tube are for an easy to unmount connection to the plate. You could drill holes in the tube and make a semi-permanent connection, saving some weight and achieving even lower centre of gravity.

#2 Camera attachment, focuser fully retracted.

#3 The needed items to connect the camera

4/3 - Nikon adapter (*)
Prime focuser DSLR adapter with Nikon fitting and undercut (**)
2" diameter 80mm extension tube with undercut (***)
(*) Reason for Nikon is that I already had a Nikon spotting scope with a DSLR adapter fitting Nikon.
(**) Can be substituted with a 2" M42 generic adapter + M42 - DSLR adapter. The prime focuser adapter is smaller.
(***) A minimum of 50mm length is recommended. 85 mm on my setup is the maximum length that will preserve focusing at infinity. Both 50mm and 80mm are standard lengths. 80mm will bring down closest focusing distance to about 6-7 meters.
Undercut is a safety measure to prevent the elements from disconnecting and risking dropping the camera, should the screws not be tight. The screws closest to camera are usually quite loose tightened in order to allow easy camera rotation.
#4 Focuser fully extended

#5 Front view showing front element (doublet achromat). The front can quite easily be unscrewed using hand force for accessing the elements.

#6 Front view with lens cap on. The central performation serves as a diaphragm, should that be wanted.

#7 Rear view showing the 2" barrel. As you can see there are no glass elements (except the front lens).

#8 Detail of gimbal head with Giotto quick release. I use a long plate, allowing perfect balance between the extremes: retracted focuser and fully extended with extra TC and extra extension tube.

I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have.
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