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Old 5th November 2013
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Impala 3D

On Anniversary day I do not only remember my Impala with a slight touch whilst going past him each morning, but it's also the time to dust him off. It is wise to do this outside, of course. After I had finished the task I took the opportunity to take this 3D portrait of him, in the morning sun:


red-cyan anaglyph

Here you have a plain 2D view, even though I have to say, my new to me lens did a darn nice job in setting him off from the background

Both full frame shots, taken with E-30 and an amazingly sharp Tamron 300mm@F2,8

The Impala was taken by me to this day, but several years back, with traditional archery gear. And yes, I ate a good part of it befor I had to go home. The nice Taxidermy was done by Derek Robinson, Thabazimbi, Southafrica.
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Old 5th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

I can only view in 2D. very sharp as you say. Did he have breakfast with you?
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Old 5th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

Nice anaglyph.. well done

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Old 6th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

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Originally Posted by banjukes View Post
Did he have breakfast with you?
Not sure I get this one!? But no, at least not in the real world. His spirit was there with me - of course.

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Originally Posted by snaarman View Post
Nice anaglyph.. well done
Thanks Pete, I do appreciate your comment.

I made three or four alike and did every one in mono, colour and as a parallel view stereo pair. I was not sure which one to post. Then decided to go with the above as it's closest to the 2D version. The B+W anaglyphs might provide a little better 3D effect though. Anyway, I am quite satisfied with the one shown ...

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Old 6th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

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I can only view in 2D. very sharp as you say. Did he have breakfast with you?
Just kidding with you about breakfast....esrly morning etc
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Old 7th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

How did you produce the 3D image, if you dont mind me asking, cheers
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Old 7th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

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Just kidding
Ah I see. Sorry for being a little confused, as it does sometimes happen, that I realy don't get it

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How did you produce the 3D image
Sure Steve.
First you will need two photos from a sligtly different angle. As I don't have a beamsplitter device I have to take them one after an other. It helps, when the subject does not move during the process, so an Impala trophy is probably prefered over a live one
Several methods can be used to get the stereo base right, but I do this by good judgment, depending on distance of subject and optics used etc. All my stereo pics are created by shifting camera position, either from the hip or by stepping aside, taking left first, then right. I dont use a tripod slide or such combersome thingy. If you get real close, i.e. for macros, you need only a small lateral move, to get the same parallax effect of course.

Next step is to use a software to tint (in this case) and mount both frames into one. I always use StereoPhoto Maker for this and consider it a real treasure. Of course you could print and mount both 'slides' to produce a stereo card, but even that is much simplified with StereoPhoto Maker. Once the propper alignment is achieved you can select several 3D options for the outcome, also different stereo card formats, which can then be printed. I love it.

A side by side stereo pair has the benefit of true colour, but is not for everyone to view without propper glasses. Okay, a red-cyan anaglyph is no different there, is it?!

I have some other examples in my gallery, if you are interested in this.

Falk
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Re: Impala 3D

Thanks very much for the info, I find 3d photography fascinating and will have a go at this based on your information

I did have a play with stereo 3d a while back as you can see here http://www.picturewales.com/images/3Dphoto.jpg but you need a 3d device like a tv etc to view
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Old 8th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

Haha, you did already know every bit I tried to explain then!? Your example works very well for me. Good thing it's parallel view, as I can't do cross eyed myself. I don't need anything to view it, but have to reduce its size, so my eyes don't have to pop out of their sockets
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Old 9th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

I had the basics but your advice has helped a lot thanks I didnt know how to combine the images and wasn't aware of the software. Glad you like mine thank you :-)

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Haha, you did already know every bit I tried to explain then!? Your example works very well for me. Good thing it's parallel view, as I can't do cross eyed myself. I don't need anything to view it, but have to reduce its size, so my eyes don't have to pop out of their sockets
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Old 12th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

I just found a pair of red/cyan glasses that had been lying around. Wow, inspiring work. Maybe I should try...

I have a few technical questions before taking next step and trying myself.

Distance to subject: To avoid blurry pictures the distance to subject must be same between frames, or you will have to resize in SW to compensate. This can be a challenge if shooting at closer ranges. Do you always preserve distance to the centre of frame, or do you sometimes preserve distance to some other interesting feature in the subject? What about optical distortions (pincushion/barrel), do you compensate for this as well?

By taking the two pictures from an angle of view that is larger than the natural angle of view from the eyes, you will emphasize the 3D effect. Do you have any guidelines for useful values?

Do you fix the exposure value and WB in a sequence, to ensure that there will be as little variations between the frames?

What are the RGB codes for the red and cyan colors you are using for separating L and R?

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Old 12th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

This is my first 3D attempt I did 2 weeks ago. No special glasses are needed. The screen appears to have depth.

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Old 12th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

Hi Tord,
I'll try to answer your questions but would like to point out, that it's not rocket science and open to experiment to a great extend. But sure, if you want to be really precise, you could make it as complicated as you want and calculate every angle and such. I have a more leisure approche to this and am quite satisfied with what can be achived in this manner

Correct, if you go with a base line wider then typical eye distance, then the 3D effect gets pronounced. In fact, I use this to my advantage when doing a 3D shot of a far away object. A scene barely resolved because of bad lighting or distance, might reveale some detail when studied in 3D. A base line of several meters is no problem if the subject is some hundred meters away. Had I known your question before I did my manual focus infinity-position test shots this morning, I would have been able to bring up a nice example of this. I may do so tomorrow, weather permitting. I have still one teleconverter test to do anyway.

Yes of course, I try to keep my focus plane, distance to subject, WB, exposure time etc. all the same for a stereo pair. But if you fail here, it might still work out okay, either it's adjustable in PP or your brain will iron out most imperfections later, in the 3D view.

AF can be sometimes tricky, but I have the Fn-button asigned to MF and will press it, after first focus is locked. I try to aim for two more or less parallel shots with a big overlap rather then doing exactly the same frame from a different angle, as this can result in such a strong parallaxe, that viewing is really unpleasant. The closer the subject the worse this effect will be.
As a rule of thumb for your base line I would say: within a few meters subject distance keep your base line close to normal eye distance, beyond that you can widen your base line. For close ups use a base line shorter then eye distance. Macros may only need a few millimeters (I may have some seesame seeds (on smörebröd) in my gallery as examples?!).

With my freehand method I'll get all sorts of slight misalignments of course. But the neat little StereoPhoto Maker will sort most out in a single pass. Rotation and size is corrected, distortions and focal lenght can be attended etc. It even does the red-cyan colouring, so that I honestly don't know the answer to your RGB code question. The programm works really nice in Auto mode, most of the time that is. Depending on your subject and the lack of detectable edges etc. it may fail though. You can adjust everything manually if you need to. And in fact, I quite often tune the lateral offset to my liking. But I would not want to miss the automatic size and rotation adjustment, as this is a pain if you have to do it by hand.

I hope I have most of your questions answered? But I'll be glad to help if I can, should there be something left.

Cheers,
Falk


Hey IanP,
great working shot, but it makes dizzy after a while. I prefer an unanimated view, I think. But thanks for showing this method. Is this a simple GIF file or how was this done?
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Old 13th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

I set the camera to continuous shooting and moved as it took 6 shots. I combined them as layers and saved as an animated GIF. Just for fun, you understand.
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Old 13th November 2013
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Re: Impala 3D

Okay, here is an update from the basline to distance apartment:

#1

Power line framework at 230m distance, 3m base line; full frame; 420mm. This shot still works pretty nice, despite the distance.

#2

100% crop from the above. Very strong 3D effect and maybe on the edge to the need of reprocessing for closely cropped parts.

#3

Fundation of a wind turbine in 3.5km distance. Basline was 10m and this is a 100% crop; 420mm.
With a base line this long only parts/crops of the full frame can be arranged as stereo pair/anaglyph, without massive parallaxe distortion. But, the purpose is to get a bit more information out of the shot, which a plain view would not provide, certainly not at this distance.

Hope this helps to explain what I was talking about in my last post.
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