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Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II The second Micro Four Thirds camera that offers phase detect focusing so you can use Four Thirds DSLR lenses normally as well a Micro Four Thirds lenses.

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  #16  
Old 30th June 2017
Walti Walti is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyR View Post
I beg to disagree. All of the 'L' sequential shooting styles, including Pro Capture L, are acpable of doing C-AF continuously between shots.
I had to go away and re-read the manual....

Apologies, you're absolutely correct:


Pro Capture High

Sequential shooting begins when you press the shutter button halfway. Press the shutter button all the way down
to begin recording captured images to the card, including those for a halfway press (P. 48). Focus, exposure, and white balance are fixed at the values for the first shot in each series.

Pro Capture Low

Sequential shooting begins when you press the shutter button halfway. Press the shutter button all the way down to begin recording captured images to the card, including those for a halfway press (P. 48). Focus and exposure are fixed according to the options selected for [AF Mode] (P. 43, 51) and [AEL/AFL] (P. 123).
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  #17  
Old 30th June 2017
Longimanus Longimanus is online now
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Cheers, great info and explains where I may have been going wrong, just need to get out an practise now :-)

I did get some success on the trip though :-)


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by Life@F8Photography, on Flickr

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walti View Post
Just to confirm....

PROCapture uses the first frame for focus lock, so that subsequent frames could well be out of focus on a moving target.

Sequential L allows C-AF to work throughout the sequence of photos
Sequential H uses the first frame to lock the focus (regardless of S-AF or C-AF setting)
As others have mentioned frame rates for the L and L silent are individually adjustable as they are for H and H silent.

Silent = electronic shutter = heart symbol

SO,

The set up I seem to be having most success with is:

Sequential L silent
C-AF
S-IS Auto
Shutter priority
1/1000s as a starting point (dependant on light and subject this gets adjusted downwards)
Aperture automatic
ISO - light dependant, auto for poor light 200 for good light

Dependant on background I use single focus point for complex stuff and 9 or all areas when shooting against a plain sky

Next step is LOTS of practice, I found I was getting 95% failure rate for the first day, which quickly changed to 95% success rate, it's mainly about choosing the subject carefully and not wasting time taking photos of dots on the horizon!

Once you have got on with that try setting the exposure to M rather than A or S, so you can set the shutter speed and aperture manually, and leave the camera to sort the exposure on auto iso!

I would also advise using a mono pod for a while, as this allows you to concentrate more on taking the photo than holding the camera still!
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  #18  
Old 30th June 2017
Longimanus Longimanus is online now
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Ah man, talk about confusion now :-)

Back to what I thought at the start :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walti View Post
I had to go away and re-read the manual....

Apologies, you're absolutely correct:


Pro Capture High

Sequential shooting begins when you press the shutter button halfway. Press the shutter button all the way down
to begin recording captured images to the card, including those for a halfway press (P. 48). Focus, exposure, and white balance are fixed at the values for the first shot in each series.

Pro Capture Low

Sequential shooting begins when you press the shutter button halfway. Press the shutter button all the way down to begin recording captured images to the card, including those for a halfway press (P. 48). Focus and exposure are fixed according to the options selected for [AF Mode] (P. 43, 51) and [AEL/AFL] (P. 123).
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  #19  
Old 30th June 2017
TonyR TonyR is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

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Originally Posted by Longimanus View Post
Ah man, talk about confusion now :-)

Back to what I thought at the start :-)
I know, irritating isn't it.

Pro Capture (even the L version) isn't very good for bif because the view through the viewfinder is very choppy. I don't fully understand why this is but there is a very pronounced blackout and delay which is not there when using Sequential L or Sequential L (silent). Personally, I usually use Sequential L (silent) mostly for bif.
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Old 30th June 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

I did notice this during my trip Tony and switched, I think my problem is that I had the CF lock on +2 loose

Need to get out there and practise now!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyR View Post
I know, irritating isn't it.

Pro Capture (even the L version) isn't very good for bif because the view through the viewfinder is very choppy. I don't fully understand why this is but there is a very pronounced blackout and delay which is not there when using Sequential L or Sequential L (silent). Personally, I usually use Sequential L (silent) mostly for bif.
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Old 30th June 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

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Originally Posted by Wildwood View Post
Never ever, ever use auto ISO for birds in flight otherwise the camera will alter exposure as you track the bird against against the changing background. Always set ISO, shutter speed and aperture manually to get the exposure right for the subject irrespective of the background.
Don't understand this comment/recommendation. It may be appropriate if/when using ESP metering, but surely not a big issue if using Centre Weighted or Spot metering?

I use the camera in Manual mode with Auto-ISO and select the shutter speed and aperture I prefer, then (on the EM1Mk2) use the Fn lever switch in position 2 to set the Exposure Compensation according to the subject & my preference for ETTR. This takes care of the changing background conditions.
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Old 30th June 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

This is exactly what I was doing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwyver View Post
Don't understand this comment/recommendation. It may be appropriate if/when using ESP metering, but surely not a big issue if using Centre Weighted or Spot metering?

I use the camera in Manual mode with Auto-ISO and select the shutter speed and aperture I prefer, then (on the EM1Mk2) use the Fn lever switch in position 2 to set the Exposure Compensation according to the subject & my preference for ETTR. This takes care of the changing background conditions.
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Old 30th June 2017
Walti Walti is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildwood View Post
Never ever, ever use auto ISO for birds in flight otherwise the camera will alter exposure as you track the bird against against the changing background. Always set ISO, shutter speed and aperture manually to get the exposure right for the subject irrespective of the background.
Not 100% sure I agree with that!

The table on p 123 of the manual suggests the exposure is locked at the first frame, regardless of mode... I've not done anything to prove this either way.

Happy to be proved wrong
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Old 30th June 2017
BreezeG BreezeG is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

I always use auto ISO for birds in flight and dont suffer problems as a result.
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Old 1st July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

After some thousand BIF photos, I do agree with Walti settings. Do not forget to set also reset lens=Off.
Maybe is the operator... but using 9 points led the camera to select the wrong point, at least this is my experience. Even in a clear sky, sometimos it focus not the eye but something else. I miss Nikon logic and hope Oly can clone it.
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Old 2nd July 2017
GyRob GyRob is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

if 5 Points / 9 / all points gets a birds eye in focus it is pure luck that at the time you hit the shutter 1 of the point's just happed to be right on the head when the camera was seeing this as the most contrast part of the bird, dof would also play a part too .

Single point would stand a better chance but that relay's on the photographer to be to be spot on the head.
It's just not possible for anyone to do that time after time .

I find that 5 points is the best over all for BIF for say a duck size bird but this depends how big it is in the VF and with say 10 fps you are very likely to get a few with the eye as the main focus .
There's no 1 setting is best for swift's / swallow's in the sky 9 is a good start but All point's may well up your keeper rate.
Just my thought's.
Rob.
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Old 2nd July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Whatever settings you used Longimanus that Puffin shot is a cracker. Overall there is some great setting advice in this thread. It's inspiring me to get out and have a go myself.
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  #28  
Old 2nd July 2017
Walti Walti is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by GyRob View Post
if 5 Points / 9 / all points gets a birds eye in focus it is pure luck that at the time you hit the shutter 1 of the point's just happed to be right on the head when the camera was seeing this as the most contrast part of the bird, dof would also play a part too .

Single point would stand a better chance but that relay's on the photographer to be to be spot on the head.
It's just not possible for anyone to do that time after time .

I find that 5 points is the best over all for BIF for say a duck size bird but this depends how big it is in the VF and with say 10 fps you are very likely to get a few with the eye as the main focus .
There's no 1 setting is best for swift's / swallow's in the sky 9 is a good start but All point's may well up your keeper rate.
Just my thought's.
Rob.
I've been playing with the focus point pad feature and have started to get some reasonable results.... (when I can get it to work)
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Old 2nd July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildwood View Post
Centre-weighting is just that; it's weighted towards the centre but still considers the rest of the frame and still has the same issue of the exposure changing as the background changes. Spot metering? Good luck with that on a fast-moving subject.

This is not some weird technique I've invented myself. It's advice I was given by several professional wildlife photographers. There are more important things to think about when tracking a bird in flight than messing with exposure compensation. I really don't understand why you're making it harder for yourself
Perhaps my original explanation was inadequate.
As I understand it, on the EM1M2 when using Spot Metering the "Spot" used for metering matches the AF used.
In the case of Centre-Weighting for BIF, it is most likely that the photographer will be attempting to keep the bird being tracked in the centre of the viewfinder as best he/she can.
With either of the above choices, and assuming that AF lock is achieved, there is a good chance that the metering will be on, or mostly weighted on, the intended subject. In the event that AF is missed, the accuracy of the metering on an OOF image will be irrelevant.

Regarding the use of Exp Comp, it is very likely that the photographer knows in advance what subject is being targetted - i.e whether it is predominantly light or dark in colour - and hence, based on experience, can apply +/- Exp Comp as thought appropriate prior to subject acquisition.

However the above is merely a personal opinion and as always it is down to each photographer to apply whatever settings works best for them. Sometimes trying a new technique can lead to pleasant surprises.
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Old 11th July 2017
bigsambwfc bigsambwfc is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

i have my mk2 set on M as walti suggests,i use the 100-400 leica lens and as I am old school I use manual focus with peaking,as I am used to focussing and panning at the same time.for bif I use 9point c-af,most others I use single spot.i wish there was a back button focus option or s-af button on fn1 possibility.my best results have been with manual focussing. got 2 A4 printable shots of flying kingfisher out of about 400 shots which is good for me.
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