About to buy a Pen-F

[RogerMac]

As the title says I am expecting to pull the trigger on a mFT camera in the near future. I am not about to get rid of my FF gear but would like something more portable (especially when not really taking photos). I already have a adaptors for FT (MMF1) and Canon FD so I can use my old collections.

My query is: Is there anything I should be warned about and does the focus peaking work well?

[pdk42]

It's a great camera - well, I love mine anyhow

Points to mention...

- Focus peaking works reasonably well in good light and when there's sufficient contrast on the object you're focusing on. However, it's not uber precise. The range of focusing over which the peaking will illuminate is greater than peak sharpness so it takes some practice to get right. OTOH, focus magnify works very well for critical focus. You can set a button to turn peaking on/off so you can choose which works for you.

- Grip is OK, but it's much improved with a cheap leather half case available on ebay for less than a tenner:




- If you are planning on using manual FD lenses, there's a nice feature whereby you can set the name, focal length and Max f stop of the lens. This gets saved into the EXIF and is also used to set the IBIS focal length.

- CAF is hopeless. Won't matter I don't suppose with manual glass or even 43 glass (where it'll be terrible all the time ), but if you do go on to use m43 lenses, it's something to be aware of.

- I find the exp comp dial too stiff to easily use with the camera to the eye; so I've programmed the rear dial to exp comp. That also had the advantage of resetting to 0 after a power cycle and being consistent with how I've setup my EM1.2 (which doesn't have a dedicated exp comp dial).

- Black is sexier than silver!

[RogerMac]

Thanks for the quick response I think I have taken it all on board. You may have gathered that I intend to keep my FF Canon gear and I stopped using the E5 but I would like to have light alternative to fit into my shoulder bag.

[pdk42]

Originally Posted by RogerMac

Thanks for the quick response I think I have taken it all on board. You may have gathered that I intend to keep my FF Canon gear and I stopped using the E5 but I would like to have light alternative to fit into my shoulder bag.

Ha - I bought my first Olympus m43 camera as a lightweight "side camera" to my Canon FF gear (5Dii), but 6 months later I'd sold all the Canon stuff!

[RogerMac]

Only time will tell

[RogerMac]

Just to let you all know that I have just ordered the Pen-F plus 17mm prime. Its first job is to be a lightweight travel camera to Switzerland next weekend

[pdk42]

Originally Posted by RogerMac

Just to let you all know that I have just ordered the Pen-F plus 17mm prime. Its first job is to be a lightweight travel camera to Switzerland next weekend

I'm sure it'll work admirably! When you get it there are a few things you need to do - essential settings:

1) Set shutter to "0s anti-shock" (diamond symbol) and enable release-time lag = short (bottom of cogs menu C I think). This will 100% guarantee no potential for shutter shock.

2) Turn "keep wam colors" to off (cogs menu G). This will stop interior shots in artificial light looking too orange.

[Snookerman]

I noticed that there are quite a few Pen F bodies for sale from japan on Ebay at ridiculously low prices...£60 or there about.
I have bought old lenses from there in the past, and paid import duties on them - though not ridiculously high and the lenses did take maybe 3 or 4 weeks to arrive.
Anyone bought one of these or have a view on it?
Surely the pen F is not that much cheaper in Japan...or is it?

[Jim Ford]

Originally Posted by Snookerman

I noticed that there are quite a few Pen F bodies for sale from japan on Ebay at ridiculously low prices...£60 or there about.

I can only see original film Pen F bodies at that price!

Jim

[Ricoh]

Originally Posted by Snookerman

I noticed that there are quite a few Pen F bodies for sale from japan on Ebay at ridiculously low prices...£60 or there about.
I have bought old lenses from there in the past, and paid import duties on them - though not ridiculously high and the lenses did take maybe 3 or 4 weeks to arrive.
Anyone bought one of these or have a view on it?
Surely the pen F is not that much cheaper in Japan...or is it?

I suspect you're looking at the Pen F or Pen FT half frame, but £60 is likely to buy a heap of junk.
Here's my Pen FT complete with 40mm f/1.4. Add another naught and you're getting closer to the price. (I didn't pay quite as much but in the same ball park.)
Pen F-2 by -Steve Ricoh-

[Snookerman]

Ah yes...you appear to be right.
Not a camera that I am familiar with. I started on OM 10s, then went to OM2s.

[RobEW]

Originally Posted by pdk42

...

1) Set shutter to "0s anti-shock" (diamond symbol) and enable release-time lag = short (bottom of cogs menu C I think). This will 100% guarantee no potential for shutter shock.

...

I've done this on my E-M1 on advice from various sources, but have no real idea why, as I don't really understand what's going on, and don't really know what shutter shock is, and under what circumstances it occurs, and what effect it has. (In particular I have picked up the impression that these menu settings are important and effective even if you're using the "single" rather than "anti-shock" shutter mode - but I might be wrong).

In fact I'm very hazy in my mind about various aspects of detail about how the shutter works, and the difference between electronic and mechanical (and a semi-electronic version for fast shutter speeds that I read of somewhere). For instance I was completely surprised and confused that changing shutter mode to silent (the heart symbol) affected not only the noisiness of shooting but also a host of other parameters, and for some reason prohibits the use of flash! I think the diamond (anti-shock) symbol has similarly drastic side effects.

Is there somewhere (online perhaps) a detailed explanation of the timing and mechanics of what's going on? I think an accurate mental model of the internal workings would help my understanding of what impact the controls have on the image. It's a shame I haven't found a detailed timeline of the shooting process after having read the Oly manual and also handbooks by Busch and Young.

[RobEW]

Wrong thread to ask that question I suppose ... it was a sort of stream of consciousness.

[Growltiger]

Shutter shock is simply a vibration caused by the movement of the mechanical shutter. It causes blurred photos at slow shutter speeds. The anti-shock (diamond) mode 0s does not have side effects. Do exactly what pdk42 said:
"1) Set shutter to "0s anti-shock" (diamond symbol) and enable release-time lag = short (bottom of cogs menu C I think). This will 100% guarantee no potential for shutter shock."

[I don't happen to agree with his other suggestion "2) Turn "keep warm colors" to off (cogs menu G). This will stop interior shots in artificial light looking too orange."
The reason - I like interior shots to look a bit yellow, that is what we actually see in our houses at night. It is a matter of individual preference.]

[RobEW]

Thanks. Does this setting in the menus (E-M1 shooting menu 2 / Anti-Shock / 0 seconds) make a difference only when the diamond shutter mode is selected (e.g. using the SCP)? I've always been using the rectangle shutter mode, described as "single".

(And if there are no side effects, I'm wondering why the rectangle mode exists, and is the default setting? Surely no-one wants shutter shock?)