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Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II The second Micro Four Thirds camera that offers phase detect focusing so you can use Four Thirds DSLR lenses normally as well a Micro Four Thirds lenses.

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  #31  
Old 12th July 2017
Longimanus Longimanus is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsambwfc View Post
i have my mk2 set on M as walti suggests,i use the 100-400 leica lens and as I am old school I use manual focus with peaking,as I am used to focussing and panning at the same time.for bif I use 9point c-af,most others I use single spot.i wish there was a back button focus option or s-af button on fn1 possibility.my best results have been with manual focussing. got 2 A4 printable shots of flying kingfisher out of about 400 shots which is good for me.
There is a back button option on the AEL/AFL button, will that not help?
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  #32  
Old 13th July 2017
bigsambwfc bigsambwfc is offline
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Question Re: Bird in Flight Help

how can I program the AEL-AFL button as a back button focus on the M mode,i need step by step guidance as I am non conversant with the instruction manual, plus thick.would appreciate help as I can only find mk1 advice which has differences with my mk2 version.not desperate just frustrated with oly menu at present, camera and lens are very good, battery grip is useless in horizontal mode as shutter is accidentally pressed too easily,so I have lost 2 extra fn buttons in horiz position.hope for easy step by step reply.
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  #33  
Old 13th July 2017
TonyR TonyR is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

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Originally Posted by bigsambwfc View Post
how can I program the AEL-AFL button as a back button focus on the M mode,i need step by step guidance as I am non conversant with the instruction manual, plus thick.would appreciate help as I can only find mk1 advice which has differences with my mk2 version.not desperate just frustrated with oly menu at present, camera and lens are very good, battery grip is useless in horizontal mode as shutter is accidentally pressed too easily,so I have lost 2 extra fn buttons in horiz position.hope for easy step by step reply.
  • Press the menu button
  • Scroll down to "gears" menu (looks like a cog)
  • Press "right" to get to menu A1
  • Press "right" to get to first menu item
  • Scroll down one item to AEL/AFL option and press "OK"
  • Select whether you want to set back-button focus for S-AF, C-AF or Manual focus and press "OK" (repeat if you want more than one)
  • Scroll down to select "mode 3" and press "OK"
  • Half-press shutter to get out of the menu system.
You're done.
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  #34  
Old 13th July 2017
Walti Walti is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsambwfc View Post
how can I program the AEL-AFL button as a back button focus on the M mode,i need step by step guidance as I am non conversant with the instruction manual, plus thick.would appreciate help as I can only find mk1 advice which has differences with my mk2 version.not desperate just frustrated with oly menu at present, camera and lens are very good, battery grip is useless in horizontal mode as shutter is accidentally pressed too easily,so I have lost 2 extra fn buttons in horiz position.hope for easy step by step reply.
Go to the menus, and enter the gear and menu A



Selecting MODE3 for S-AF sets focusing by pushing the AEL/AFL button...
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  #35  
Old 13th July 2017
TonyR TonyR is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

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Originally Posted by Beagletorque View Post
Obviously you can use what ever settings you find work for you, most of the time it's trial and error. You have to start somewhere!

As I understand it -2 means it is least likely to switch focus to a different target, eg if there is a busy background.

http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/m43/em1.2-sett.html#AFLOC Has some useful setting tips / info....

"A1.4. C-AF Lock
C-AF Lock [BF] [C]

This is a protection against the camera refocusing in the C-AF mode when something crosses the field of view (like people passing between the camera and the subject). It simply disables the focus adjustment if the change is large and sudden.
The setting is entered as a whole value from -2 to +2. Negative values are referred to as Tight, positive — as Loose. At higher values switching to a new AF target happens more easily.
For most users, the default zero setting makes sense here."
I have been using C-AF Lock set to -2 for a couple of weeks now quite successfully. As long as you pick up the correct target on initial AF acquisition, it will stick with it quite well. It does not seem to affect the responsiveness of the AF as has been suggested/assumed by some. So, it seems to follow a fast moving subject just as well set to -2 as it does set to +2 but has less tendency to wander off. The Olympus advice on the Aus web site seems poor in this respect.

My conclusion, as wrotniak suggests, is that this functions works the same way as on the E-M1. That is, it varies the delay in looking for a new subject once it identifies that the original subject has been lost. I think the E-M1 values were 0.25, 0.5 and 1 seconds. If you stick on the subject, they both work the same. If you lose a bif for a moment, -2 to better as the camera doesn't shoot off to focus on something else.

Thanks for the suggestion.

This shot was taken with C-AF set to -2. Sort of bif .

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  #36  
Old 13th July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

The setup I use is EM-1 Mark and m.Zuiko 300/F4. MC14 is sometimes used. I think that am now getting somewhere with the setup producing quite good results.

I have two sets, have saved them on custom sets for convenient access. Both sets share the following:

· C-AF (not CAF + TR)

· CAF shutter release priority OFF

· Mechanical shutter. I think it provides the most pleasant feedback in the viewfinder.

· L-FPS

· FPS max (10)

· No limit on frame count, as you never know what will happen. I will typically shoot sequences 5 frames which increases the chance of getting at least one that is in focus and with nice posture.

· RAW

· Auto ISO

· Max ISO 3200, longest shutter time 1/1600 s. Sometimes shorter depending on action and if subject will be at close distance. Max ISO is a matter of how much noise you accept. ISO 3200 will allow the camera to reach 1/1600 s through an F/4 lens even in overcast conditions. In practice the highest ISO values I have seen when reviewing and developing photos have been 2000 and in a few rare occasions 2500. So I decided to set 3200 to be on the safe side and honor shutter speed.

· Exposure mode Av

· Evaluative light metering

· Exposure compensation from +/-0 to +2 depending on light, expected subject and background. Often 0.7 or 1 are good starting values.

· AEL/AFL mode 2. Time permitting, I will prepare by locking exposure targeting in the direction where I expect the most interesting frames to be be taken. If not then, the first frame will dictate the exposure.

· Prefocusing is very important to increase chance that AF will acquire focus quickly.

· Lens focus limiter set to 4 meters. If your lens does not have any limiter, then the limit can be set in the camera menu.

· IS off



The first set is where tracking the BIF is feasible for a reasonable amount of time (several seconds) without losing track of it. With these settings and if the camera acquires focus early in a sequence I estimate I get 50% keepers on average (focus on target) with a spread from something like 20% to 90%.

· 9 central points. Have been using 5 and 9 back and forth, and find that the 9 points seem to result in higher keeper rate.

· CAF lock -1 or -2 (tight or tightest). This helps in avoiding the AF locking on the background when you lose track of the BIF. However when that happens risk is the AF will "stuck" on background, or not refocus on the subject until too late. For predictable subjects I will use -2, for less predictable I will use -1

The second set is used when tracking the subject is hardly feasible (e.g. swallows or gulls/terns flying by at short distance, 5-10 meters) and with clean/separated background. With these settings I get 10% - 15% keepers on average however a big spread is seen, depending on preparations (pre-focusing and correct framing early in the sequence). Lack of preparations amost always result in zero keepers.

· All AF points

· CAF lock loosest, +2. As you more often than never will lose track of the subject and the time window providing photo opportunity is short you want the AF to re-acquire focus ASAP.
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Last edited by Tordan58; 13th July 2017 at 08:15 PM. Reason: IS Off
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  #37  
Old 13th July 2017
Olybirder Olybirder is online now
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

It is interesting reading users' chosen BIF settings, especially Tord's as he has been posting some excellent shots recently.

I can see nothing that different from my own, unsuccessful, settings, so most of it must be down to sheer skill. The only differences I can see are Shutter Release Priority OFF and C-AF Lock (I have been using 0.)

The only other thing which I haven't seen mentioned is Image Stabilization. Does everybody turn it off or does anybody use it?

Ron
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  #38  
Old 13th July 2017
Walti Walti is offline
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olybirder View Post
It is interesting reading users' chosen BIF settings, especially Tord's as he has been posting some excellent shots recently.

I can see nothing that different from my own, unsuccessful, settings, so most of it must be down to sheer skill. The only differences I can see are Shutter Release Priority OFF and C-AF Lock (I have been using 0.)

The only other thing which I haven't seen mentioned is Image Stabilization. Does everybody turn it off or does anybody use it?

Ron
I use the image stabilisation, as it helps me focus on and track the subject.

When on one of the Olympus days the trainer said the image stabilisation is not effective above a certain shutter speed... though I can't see any reference to this in the instruction book, so I assume he's mistaken!
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  #39  
Old 13th July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olybirder View Post
It is interesting reading users' chosen BIF settings, especially Tord's as he has been posting some excellent shots recently.

I can see nothing that different from my own, unsuccessful, settings, so most of it must be down to sheer skill. The only differences I can see are Shutter Release Priority OFF and C-AF Lock (I have been using 0.)

The only other thing which I haven't seen mentioned is Image Stabilization. Does everybody turn it off or does anybody use it?

Ron
I turn it off. IS will be trying to keep the image still so if you are panning it may well blur the subject whilst trying to correct for your motion.
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Old 13th July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walti View Post
I use the image stabilisation, as it helps me focus on and track the subject.

When on one of the Olympus days the trainer said the image stabilisation is not effective above a certain shutter speed... though I can't see any reference to this in the instruction book, so I assume he's mistaken!
The object of IS is to counteract image blur due to camera movement or "shake" at lower shutter speeds. If you are panning to follow a moving subject the IS will seek to oppose your panning and can as Tony says cause blur so I can't quite see how keeping IS on for BIF helps you "focus on and track the subject".

Before IS was developed the only way to overcome blur due to camera shake was to use higher shutter speeds. The current OMDs can now allow shutter speeds in seconds rather than fractions of a second to be used handheld without blur. Above a certain shutter speed however the "old rules" still apply and there will be no blur any way so the IS will not give any further improvement so will "not be effective". This does not mean that the IS system
is not working or is inhibited which would need a comment in the manual, it's just how photography works.

Regards.
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  #41  
Old 13th July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

thanks all for back button focus info,set it all up, got to try it in field now, one question though do you hold button down when panning bif or pump button?
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  #42  
Old 13th July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

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Originally Posted by Beagletorque View Post
AF is only continuous in low sub 10 fps, otherwise it sticks at the first frame unchanged.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Off the top of my head that's not correct on the E-M1 Mark II and possibly the Mark 1 since the major firmware update. Can anyone else comment?

Ian
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  #43  
Old 13th July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

will test it out in morning as there is a model airplane club nearbye,gud test for bif on back button,holding button down seems to work from my garden window on silent low sequence so I am hopeful.
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Old 13th July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

To me IS on lets you keep on the subject by holding it still BIF so make it easier to get the focus point on it .
I always have IS on and use auto, this is suppose to take into account when panning on the mk2 .
Rob.
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Old 13th July 2017
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Re: Bird in Flight Help

Regarding the IS: I have been testing both with and without. With the IS on (Auto-IS) at occasion I get unsharp frames with something that looks like high frequency, low amplitude shake blur so I guess the IS is involved in this. With the shutter speed that my settings honor (1/1600s or faster) I will turn the IS off. Another reason for doing so is to reduce current consumption as the 300/F4 gyros are engaged all the time. The gain in battery life is noticeable.
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