Wildlife Photography (and all its difficulties�)

[timmypreston]

[David M]

[timmypreston]

[David M]

[Tordan58]

Considering you are using the EC20 which does reduce IQ, even on the 150mm f2, I think the results are pretty good. As for the percentage of keepers you are getting this could be down to experience in photographing birds so keep at it and the rate I'm sure will improve. Even though I've been doing it for years and am now mainly using a Canon 7D Mk2 for birds I still have quite a few that are unsatisfactory.

David

I have been using the 300 /2.8 for some time now and although it produces top end result the C-AF performance delivered by the system is not that great (applies both to E5 and E-M1). And yes I have been trying both the E5 1 and 9 point settings. SAF and careful half-press of shutter release button helps but most of the shots turn out slightly OOF, enough for the shot to be ruined. CAF amost always results in losing track of subject, enough for the AF to start hunting, and then the opportunity is usually gone. S-AF is OK but the focus is not always acquired consistently between shots (more or less depending on subject), so better take 3 pictures or more to be on the safe side. This has brought me back to use MF as much as possible.

David, it would be interesting to see/read about the results you are achieving with your new Canon setup.

[KeithL]

[Mdb2]

[tenzan]

[tenzan]

[cliff]

[Ivor]

wildlife gallery.

The C-AF lock I didn't know about nor the dynamic single autofocus! I learn something every day.

Two additional tips I employ: I invariably add +0.7 exposure because the sky (or often the sea for me) is bright and this can trick the camera into reducing the exposure. Also, I always keep both eyes open so I can see what's going on outside the frame (on one side!) It makes it a lot easier to spot subjects outside the frame.

I also tend to reduce the focal length of a zoom lens with the intention of cropping the image later. It gives a lot more room around the subject for creative cropping if the picture isn't composed exactly how I like. Also, even relatively slow-moving gulls can change direction and fly out of frame really easily. My E-5 has plenty of pixels and so I use them.

I do use auto focus for bird shots because (a) it is faster than me turning the ring by hand and (b) my eyes are not as sharp as they were a few years ago. My E-5 does a better job than I do at focusing!

Tenzan, I really like the shots. The Robin on the twig is perfect with the catchlight in its eye. Eyes are so important in bird shots and can make or break them. You were pretty much on the same level as the robin, which makes a difference. Taking a step to the right, if it were possible, would have avoided the twig obstructing the body. A tiny bit more depth of field so the whole bird was in focus might be something worth trying next time. Not always easy, getting the balance between subject sharpness and removing background obstructions with lens blur. Super shot though. The sharpness of the bird is great.

The young swans are nicely composed and again the eye on the front swan has a nice light reflecting in it. I sometimes use a flash when shooting birds because it is not always possible to ideally place oneself to catch the light in the eye.

I love pictures of flying gulls. Gulls make such fantastic shapes in the air and it is great to see birds doing something in a shot and gulls are often doing things. You have got those two nice and sharp. If you do not object to a bit of editing, I would be tempted to clone out the wing tip on the right of the shot as it's a bit of a distraction and maybe remove the reflection line from the top right of the image.

I think bird photography is one of the most challenging areas of photography that I always struggle with and enjoy enormously because of the challenge (and my high failure rate!). Thanks for sharing those with us.

All the best,

Ivor

[David Morison]

[Falk]

Hi!
I just read this thread and will throw in some thoughts. Not in order of importance, just "random wisdom" for wildlife photography

• always get as close to your subject as you can
• know your subject
• Robins do like to pose - yes!
• Dial in exposure compansation depending on subject/background (as already mentioned by others). I tend to go for +1.7EV against a blue sky for BIF. But my bodies are also set at a constant +0.3EV ("expose to the right") which makes this effectively +2EV. I change the EV setting many many times as I go, depending of what shot I expect to be the next and/or lighting conditions.
• IS2 is of no help for BIF IMHO; turn IS OFF for moving targets.
• I never used C-AF (E-520, E-30, E-5) for more then testing. When AF is used I will most often use single point - and move it about to fit the composition. For BIF I tend to switch to diamond pattern AF.
• Keep in mind that AF calibration of your body/lens combo could be off slightly. With E-30 and E-5 I can adjust the AF and for me this is a very important option to have.
• Use a monopod if convenient. I always have a Manfrotto 695CX slung on my back, but will use it only in certain circumstances as I like the freedom of hand held shooting. But, for supporting my binoculars it is at least as often employed as is as camera support - or a combination of both.
• Consider camouflage or the use of a hide. I never did the later myself, as it feels like cheating to me, but that is also why I seldom can compete with the many stellar photos that where taken at close range out of one ...
• prefocus your lense if possible
• wildlife shots can not be planed as studio work is, so get out often and take what ever is offered - once in a while you will get lucky with kind of critter, lighting, composition, bokeh and such ...
• Focal lenght is always good to have. I've used my Tamron 300m F2.8 with and without EC-14 for about 1 1/2yrs almost exclusively now. I often lacked the reach I would have wanted. Just the other day I got the Bigma out (in fact used it with EC-14 to give 708mm) and really enjoyed the reach (and AF) - once again - see below
• send me your 150mm F2 - as it's worthless for wildlife

I'll stop here, even though I could go on for a while I guess. Sorry for the long text. Hope a point or two are worth the read though.


Wren at c. 8m distance, however, quite a big crop even though Bigma + EC-14 were at full stretch [E-5 (OOC), 708mm, F10, 1/250s, ISO400, monopod].

Falk

[David M]

[Falk]