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-   -   Frozen webs and Aperture question (http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4252)

DannyH 7th January 2009 07:02 PM

Frozen webs and Aperture question
I went out last weekend to the local flood plain, but the road was flooded and I saw these down the road. There was an area with frozen spider webs that I shot below.

As I have wanted to get more DOF on my close-ups, I've started using aperture priority off and on. In reading how this is used I see that a sweet spot might be around f9 to f11. I had many of my shots at f22 look soft to me. To get them sharper, should I be shooting closer to f11? Is this what is meant by a sweet spot?



This one looks like lace



andym 7th January 2009 07:23 PM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
Hi Danny

First of all very nice pictures.I've been after frozen spiders webs for some time with no luck.

About the aperture as I understand it the sweet spot on 4/3 is f8 and upwards towards your maximum but not alway at the max dependant on what lens you use.
At F22 the diffraction ie the angle at which the light strikes the sensor comes into play and will make your pictures very soft.
The only time I use f11-14 is when I am taking macro with the 50mm to try to get a bit of extra DOF.

Hope this makes sence and remember I am no expert.

Henk 7th January 2009 07:32 PM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
Cool (!) shots Danny, Andy has given a good explanation on the aperture / DOF / diffraction thing.

DannyH 7th January 2009 07:36 PM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
Thanks for the replies, and the Aperture info. Andy, do you usually shot on the P mode?

andym 7th January 2009 07:40 PM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question

Aperture nearly all the time.I find I get in a mess if I use P.

Makonde 7th January 2009 10:39 PM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
I read that above F11 with E-system lenses, diffraction starts to play a part but I'd welcome refs to some (intelligible) source material on that.

Once you've reached the max DOF you can get without diffraction, the only way to get more of a target in focus AFAIK is to zoom out / walk back / use shorter focal length so that the object is smaller in the frame. This is one situation where, if you then have to crop in, it helps to have....... more pixels!

Or there is focus-stacking software but it's awfully fiddly to set up shots and with a tripod, and I think suitable only for macros in controlled circumstances.

Or are there other ways?

dbutch 8th January 2009 08:14 AM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
To say that diffraction kicks in at say F8 on 4/3rds isn't strictly true in as much as it depends on which camera as it is affected by the the pixel density of the chip and in the studio I notice the E-400 & E-510 look very slighty softer after about f9 whereas the E-1 its about f11. Seem to remember in an earlier thread on this site that Ian confirmed this with Olympus. So technically the push for greater resolution on 4/3rd needs to be limited otherwise the optimum apertures for your lens will be f2.8-F4 wihich will snooker the slower zooms!

(added: Link to earlier thread http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthre...?t=1053&page=2 )

That said its not like at f8 its sharp and f11 is rubbish it actually just tails of slightly and I will use f16 but try to avoid f22.

Like Andy when I'm out and about I tend to use Aperture Priority and in the studio Manual


Imageryone 8th January 2009 09:28 AM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
I find that f8-11 on the E-1 is about right and on the E-300 you can get tof22, but you must remember to turn the noise filter on and be prepared to wait between shots.
I only ever use Aperture Priority or Manual. Never had S or programs when I learnt, many years ago;):D;) and definitely none on Medium Format.

snaarman 8th January 2009 10:06 AM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
I generally do not go beyond f11, and I also use Aperture priority (out and about) or Manual mode (off camera flash).

I just tried a quick experiment looking into this macro - deep DoF thing. I tried the 14-42 with a close up lens on the front, then the 50mm macro, then the Tamron 90 macro, all at f11, all at minimum distance from target. The unhelpful answer I get is that the 14-42 (even with the close up lens) does not have the same magnification as the other two by a long way.

The Tamron and the 50mm produce near identical results: similar magnification and depth of field but with differing working distances. The depth of field is pretty minimal in either case..

I don't think there is an easy way to get depth of field when close up, specially if you restrict yourself to f11 :(

However you could try to adapt a Frazier lens to 4/3rds !! http://www.panavision.co.uk/pdf/down...data-sheet.pdf


DannyH 8th January 2009 05:06 PM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
Thanks for all the information. I think I'll try to keep it around F9 and cometimes push it to F11. I'll experiment and see what works. I think I'll make one of MY modes start at F9 Aperture mode.

Jim Ford 8th January 2009 07:28 PM

Re: Frozen webs and Aperture question
Here's a good explanation of diffraction from the excellent Cambridgeincolour web site:



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