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DerekW
14th January 2008, 02:50 PM
This is when a regular 4/3rds lens does not transmit aperture information to the camera body and when the camera cannot instruct the lens on focussing.

On the E3 and E1 this shows the aperture display as F - - on the LCD on the top of the camera, along with the maximum shutter speed.

I had this occur today - so I rang Olympus Techline and was told to exercise the contact pins (ie depress the pins several times - and ensure that they are all sticking out correctly) on the body inside the lens mount and then replace the lens. The lens should then be able to communicate with the body - if it does not then it is a trip to the Olympus service depot where your brand new camera can spend the next three weeks being serviced.

Some questions come to mind - is the focusing problem that is being widely reported due to a lens body communication failure - it may be worth exercising the pins to see if it assists with the focusing problem.

There are also discussions on the inconsistency of the HLD4 battery grip, it is electronically connected to the camera body by a multitude of pins - it may be worth exercising these pins as well to see if it resolves any of the errant behaviour.

The person I spoke to at the Olympus Helpline said that the pin contacts issue was a well known E-System problem.

Perhaps one should exercise the pins when you are cleaning the lenses and body as a regular preventative maintenance activity

I will spam the other three forums with this post - apologies to the people who are following these forums.

Ian
14th January 2008, 03:07 PM
I don't think the HLD-4 problem is related to the pin contacts. BLM-1 batteries work normally in the grip, it's specifically to do with all types of AA battery in the AA holder.

I've now tried standard alkalines (battery indicator was normal, but the shutter release didn't respond at all), premium heavy duty Duracell M3 alkalines (seemed to work normally for a short period of time and then battery empty sign showed - switched off and immediately back on to show normal battery sign - for a short period again, etc.), Energizer Lithiums (same response as the Duracell M3s), and finally, 2800 mAh NiMH rechargeables (battery empty indicator from switch on).

I remember a similar problem with the Sigma SD9 and SD10, though alkalines worked normally, it was just the NiMHs that wouldn't work.

I still haven't had a full response from Olympus about this - will chase today.

Ian

andym
14th January 2008, 03:10 PM
Derek

I must admit it occured to me a few weeks ago that the focus issue might be a comm's problem.When I first had the E3 I got the F---- quite a few times but it seems to have settled down now.Also I notice that sometimes the focus problems seem worse than others ,in fact last weekend was a good one and the 50-200 behaved very well.
One question any thoughts about how to clean the contacts and any fluids to use???

DerekW
14th January 2008, 03:19 PM
Andy

they just suggested pressing in the pins so that they moved freely and ensured that they all were similarly proud before replacing the lens.

I tried to ask if they had changed any lubrication recently but they said no - that this was a common problem on the E System. They said that were not engineers and had no knowledge of such matters.

I bet that there has been some "value engineering" carried out and the spring rate has been changed or the amount or type of lubrication has been carried out.

I would not want to risk adding any material to try and lubricate the pins unless I had a great pile of cameras to try things out with. The way things are going, the service centres are going to have a great pile of cameras to play with.

Ian
14th January 2008, 03:23 PM
Andy

they just suggested pressing in the pins so that they moved freely and ensured that they all were similarly proud before replacing the lens.

I tried to ask if they had changed any lubrication recently but they said no - that this was a common problem on the E System. They said that were not engineers and had no knowledge of such matters.

I bet that there has been some "value engineering" carried out and the spring rate has been changed or the amount or type of lubrication has been carried out.

I would not want to risk adding any material to try and lubricate the pins unless I had a great pile of cameras to try things out with. The way things are going, the service centres are going to have a great pile of cameras to play with.

Mmmmmmm.... I have half a dozen bodies and about a dozen lenses and virtually never have any problem.

Ian

DerekW
14th January 2008, 03:41 PM
I experienced this issue for a few minutes when I first bought the E3 camera in November and then today while out practicing with the camera and seabirds it failed and I could not get it working - it was out of use for an hour or more.

Even after the exercising the pins, the function was not returned immediately - however now it appears to be working.

Jim Ford
14th January 2008, 06:45 PM
I wouldn't use any abrasive to clean the pins in an attempt to improve their conductivity. The pins appear to be gold plated which is impervious to corrosion. Cleaning with an abrasive will remove the probably very thin gold plating, and make things worse in the end.

Jim Ford

PeterD
14th January 2008, 07:26 PM
I wouldn't use any abrasive to clean the pins in an attempt to improve their conductivity. The pins appear to be gold plated which is impervious to corrosion. Cleaning with an abrasive will remove the probably very thin gold plating, and make things worse in the end.

Jim Ford

Totally agree with Jim above also, ensure you do not bring any hard sharp object into contact with the pins or pads. This will have the same effect as using an abrasive.

PeterD

DerekW
24th January 2008, 05:32 PM
Another major failure in communication - took 2 pictures outside, swapped to the 50200 and the F- - error appeared in the LCD screen. Removed lens, pressed in the pins replaced lens, still F- -.

Re inserted 1260 and still F- -, pressed pins no joy eventually it cam back to talk to the 1260 but not the 50200.

Spoke to Oly Tech Support - send it back they said or try the supplier for a swap - sadly there is shortage of unsold E3s in the country so looks like a trip to Watford for it to be put under the knife and grease gun.

Strangely the lens and camera work OK in my study while I have been trying out various recommendations but take them outside and the system fails.

PeterD
24th January 2008, 05:42 PM
Another major failure in communication - took 2 pictures outside, swapped to the 50200 and the F- - error appeared in the LCD screen. Removed lens, pressed in the pins replaced lens, still F- -.

Re inserted 1260 and still F- -, pressed pins no joy eventually it cam back to talk to the 1260 but not the 50200.

Spoke to Oly Tech Support - send it back they said or try the supplier for a swap - sadly there is shortage of unsold E3s in the country so looks like a trip to Watford for it to be put under the knife and grease gun.

Strangely the lens and camera work OK in my study while I have been trying out various recommendations but take them outside and the system fails.

Hi Derek,

Sorry to hear the problem has returned.

Has Oly UK (Watford) got any stock of E3s? Might be a backstop for you.

Kind regards

PeterD

DerekW
24th January 2008, 06:33 PM
Peter - Thanks - has your replacement lens arrived yet.

The dealer has contacted Olympus and and so far none available - this does tie in with Oly selling two months supply in two weeks (as of late November).

In a way I do not know which is better - a repaired camera or a new one from the early manufacturing batch or one from a batch fresh off the ship sometime.

Good job I have the E1s including one with only 68 shutter actuations.

Being a materialistic techy freak I feel a bit let down.

PeterD
24th January 2008, 07:45 PM
Peter - Thanks - has your replacement lens arrived yet.

The dealer has contacted Olympus and and so far none available - this does tie in with Oly selling two months supply in two weeks (as of late November).

In a way I do not know which is better - a repaired camera or a new one from the early manufacturing batch or one from a batch fresh off the ship sometime.

Good job I have the E1s including one with only 68 shutter actuations.

Being a materialistic techy freak I feel a bit let down.

Hi Derek

No I still have not received my lens yet but I was told it shall be with me this week. Only one day to go though:(

I believe that sales of both the E3 and 12-60 lens have been considerably higher than was expected.

Sorry about the stocks of E3 being out. As for new or repaired being the better option. Its a difficult call to make.

If you opt for a repair I guess, that this may affect your statutory rights to a refund.
If you get a replacement then your warranty should re-start when you receive the replacement. With the issues that have been raised, I would expect any shortcomings to have been addressed in any new batch (this is the basis of my reasoning re the lens) and finally, the failure rate is certainly not 100%. Most people seem to be happy even with the early released product.

Hope that helps

PeterD

PS Have you thought about seeing if a loan camera is available while waiting for the replacement? I understand Oly Pro Club members have this option and it may be worth asking, under the circumstances, if this could apply to you.

DerekW
24th January 2008, 08:27 PM
I do not think I would go for a loan camera - I have no projects on the calendar yet - if one came up the E1 would do the job well (why have an E3 - valid question).

Interesting thing - suppose I rejected the camera as not fit etc etc - would I have to return the bag and grip - morally yes I suppose, but legally - the offers were from Oly but the dealer is responsible for the goods.

Any way the reasons I bought the E3 were IS and higher useful ISO capability, a benefit I realised once I started using it was the much faster processing to the image to the CF card and general usability.