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Matt_Hirst
10th October 2017, 07:45 PM
Just ordered the above lens, booked a week in a lighthouse in Wales at end of the month so what do I need to know to get the best out of it?

Been using the Olympus1 mk2 for around 6 months but have mainly had it in manual mode with the Panasonic 100-400 lowest f stop with the fastest speed. So as I'm now using the opposite end what do I need to know / do?

Am intending ordering filters before trip, nisi 10 stop and medium grad, and maybe a tripod to take with me. Anything else I've missed?

Matt

P.s. relative newcomer so please keep responses simple :)

alfbranch
10th October 2017, 10:53 PM
Well to start with an Ultra wide angle lens is harder to get good shots with than people think.
Even rellatively close objects will seem a long way and small at 7mm. I would have suggested a 9-18mm myself but at least the 7-14mm will remain focused when you zoom in and out. Not all shots need to be taken from eye level standing up.

If you want to get maximum deoth of field put in MF the focus ring slide back and forth and when the focus scale is visible it is in MF.

To see what will get back to front Dof look here. At 7mm set it 1m and use f4 to achieve focus from 0.45m to infinity for instance.

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Shhoting the sea can be fun IMO I was out today so I suggest playing with shutter speeds as IMO 1/4 to 1/60 sec are much more interesting when the sea rough than 60 secinds.

Ricoh
11th October 2017, 07:45 AM
Staying in a lighthouse, that sounds great. I always thought it an ideal job working as a lighthouse keeper, that or a Concorde pilot.

Phill D
11th October 2017, 07:54 AM
I don't have a 7-14mm but I have recently acquired a 7.5mm Samyang lens and the key thing for me is to keep your fingers/feet/shadow out of the shot. It's surprisingly difficult in some circumstances. Otherwise have fun and try it even in situations where you think it wont work as you might be surprised what you get. My recent Derbyshire landscapes came out a lot better that I'd expected.

Graham_of_Rainham
11th October 2017, 10:56 AM
A lot of people seem to forget that it also works in portrait orientation... :D

I used my one quite a bit in portrait orientation and have even used it with a sweep panorama.

Experiment and Have fun

*chr

Matt_Hirst
11th October 2017, 11:19 AM
Thanks for the responses guys, am looking forward to trying the lens out, just unsure when people talk of filters and everything else - but then again I am not one for much post processing and faffing.

Will post some pics, once I have some images.

Matt

alfbranch
11th October 2017, 01:13 PM
Thanks for the responses guys, am looking forward to trying the lens out, just unsure when people talk of filters and everything else - but then again I am not one for much post processing and faffing.

Will post some pics, once I have some images.

Matt

Beware of believing the argument that filters are not needed.

PP cannot replace a Polariser or a 10 stop filter and a Five three or two stop can make all the difference to avoid certian apperture setting.
Grads too have thier place as they will help you record more detail allowing more options whether you PP or not.

Matt_Hirst
16th October 2017, 07:44 PM
So which filters would you recommend to start with?

The nisi starter kit comes with a 10stop and a 3 or 4 stop, the place we are stopping at is on Anglesey so wld be a mix of seascape and landscape.

Matt

pdk42
16th October 2017, 09:25 PM
So which filters would you recommend to start with?

The nisi starter kit comes with a 10stop and a 3 or 4 stop, the place we are stopping at is on Anglesey so wld be a mix of seascape and landscape.

Matt

I personally have both 10-stop and 8-stop filters and hardly ever use the 8. Big-stop NDs are all about getting long exposures in daylight and even at ISO 200 you need all the attenuation you can get!

Polarising filters are of less use on UWA lenses for landscapes since they cause uneven darkening of the sky.

Jim Ford
16th October 2017, 09:55 PM
It's tempting to think that UWA lenses would be good for landscapes, but so often you can end up with an image with the top half sky, the bottom half grass, and a very thin strip of interest dividing the two!

Jim

RobEW
16th October 2017, 10:02 PM
You need something interesting in the foreground

Jim Ford
16th October 2017, 10:09 PM
You need something interesting in the foreground

... and it needs to be really, really in the foreground!

Jim

pdk42
17th October 2017, 06:25 AM
Rocks, old logs, grass, anything will do for foreground interest. Here are a few examples of mine:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/29169457724_60280e1f9b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LrB6wU)
Sprague Lake (https://flic.kr/p/LrB6wU) by Paul Kaye (https://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_kaye/), on Flickr


https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8099/29691710802_749a9db1bb_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MeKMbj)
Moon over Sprague Lake (https://flic.kr/p/MeKMbj) by Paul Kaye (https://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_kaye/), on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8243/29672539551_f4bb392a59_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Md4wev)
Sunset over Bear Lake (https://flic.kr/p/Md4wev) by Paul Kaye (https://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_kaye/), on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7612/17173200686_9e710cbc9d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sax9g1)
Harbour Bridge & Opera House (https://flic.kr/p/sax9g1) by Paul Kaye (https://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_kaye/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4262/34636183504_a62c3e1f66_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ULFuDE)
Driftwood (https://flic.kr/p/ULFuDE) by Paul Kaye (https://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_kaye/), on Flickr

Phill D
17th October 2017, 08:01 AM
Stunning images Paul, really nicely done.

Matt_Hirst
17th October 2017, 11:19 AM
Superb images, really superb.

Matt

Matt_Hirst
7th November 2017, 12:28 PM
Well had fun on Anglesey, stayed at Point Lynas lighthouse.

The lens was superb but I must admit it was a steep learning curve - especially coming from a Panasonic 100-400 - I had to check numerous times to see if the lens was attached as everything was so far away!

Lessons learned:
* Definitely need a tripod or something to hold it all steady.
* Could do with an 8 stop filter or lower for waterfall work.
* Need to learn a suitable imaging software to get the best out of it all.

Really enjoyed being at the end of the lens spectrum though and can't wait to get out with it all again.

Matt

Rocknroll59
7th November 2017, 04:37 PM
Hi Matt

had mine 2/3 months now, and it is brilliant, def need to work on it as my first shots were disappointing. However, viewed now on my new 4K screen the detail is well overwhelming....just a pity that I can't post full size res on this forum...

Peter *yes

Matt_Hirst
7th November 2017, 08:57 PM
Peter,

Some of the images are amazing, even though hand held, looking forward to spending more time with the lens.


Matt

Matt_Hirst
24th November 2017, 12:39 PM
OK, can someone talk me through focus stacking / bracketing please - in simple terms.

I've seen some mention of this but can't get my head around it.

May help if I give an example of what I am trying to achieve:

* I've seen landscape images where the close rocks are in perfect focus as is a distant object - how do people achieve this?

* Am also interested in getting ready for next years dragon flys so want to get images where the dragon fly, say on a leaf, is in perfect focus.

As an aside I've been and bought a tripod Benro TXA38cl to help me out - just need to find a suitable head now.

Matt

Greytop
24th November 2017, 01:18 PM
OK, can someone talk me through focus stacking / bracketing please - in simple terms.

I've seen some mention of this but can't get my head around it.

May help if I give an example of what I am trying to achieve:

* I've seen landscape images where the close rocks are in perfect focus as is a distant object - how do people achieve this?

* Am also interested in getting ready for next years dragon flys so want to get images where the dragon fly, say on a leaf, is in perfect focus.

As an aside I've been and bought a tripod Benro TXA38cl to help me out - just need to find a suitable head now.

Matt

I'm not sure you would need to resort to that with the 7-14.
Here's a recent example I took with mine up in the lakes, hand held, 8 mm @f/5.6

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/38019517892_e1dc3708b5_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZVDY6b)Derwent Water (https://flic.kr/p/ZVDY6b) by Huw Prosser (https://www.flickr.com/photos/130838020@N04/), on Flickr

Matt_Hirst
24th November 2017, 06:18 PM
Superb image, but I was looking at images of say south stack Anglesey and the near rocks, stairs were in focus as is the light house itself and that is what I was trying to recreate.

Matt

Mdb2
7th December 2017, 11:52 PM
My thoughts on this lens and itís steep learning curve. I recall Thomas Heaton done a vlog on focusing in the field, a short while ago quite interesting utube. This lens does take some getting used to, I come from a nature background with long lenses. I was not impressed with my first few shots. So itís still a suck it and see. As you mentioned filters I found it strange that the 100mm size filters actually vignette at the wide end ie 7-8mm. So opted for the 150mm size. I couldnít see the point of paying a grand for the lens and not using it wide open. However the size of these filters seems to go against the micro four thirds ideology. They are expensive as well.
Kind regards Mike

drmarkf
8th December 2017, 10:38 AM
At 7mm and f5.6 the hyperfocal distance on m4/3 is something just over half a meter, so for conventional landscapes even with very close foreground objects you can almost forget about focusing at all, never mind stacking!

Otto
10th December 2017, 10:18 AM
The old Olympus OM System Lens Handbook suggests that with ultra-wide lenses, you compose your shot and then take a step forward and do it again. The best bit of advice on ultra-wides I've ever heard.

It is a pity that so few modern AF lenses have focus distance and d-o-f scales on them, it makes it difficult to set them at hyperfocal distance. There are times when only manual focus will do!