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Lakota
8th October 2015, 12:10 PM
I do a lot of macro and would like some advice on macro flashes, I currently use the EM-5 Mk1 and EM-1 with the Olympus 60mm macro

I have seen various old systems T28 T10 but none of them seem to exist with olympus anymore, where they just built for the four thirds system?

I have been using a the standard flash that comes with the cameras and a metz 58 AF2 off camera using wireless, which works sometimes but annoying having to hold camera in one hand flash in other.
any suggestions or advice would be welcome, I mostly photograph insects like dragonflies and damsels

thanks

Roger

Ross the fiddler
8th October 2015, 01:07 PM
There are some less technical methods of getting good flash coverage with what you have. The Metz on camera can have some white card attached (can be as rough as using an elastic band to hold it) on the top & bent down to reflect the light down & providing a wide spread of light & for the small FL-LM2 flash you can hold a card to reflect the light or attach thin white paper at end of the lens angled out over the subject from the top of the lens to act as a large (relatively speaking) diffuser. It can work surpringly well. You can also make a funnel shaped snook with the angled diffuser at the end for it too.

Lakota
8th October 2015, 01:15 PM
Thanks very much for your help and advice I will give it a try, I also bought the metz ring flash when i bought the metz 58 af2 but its quite bulky and can fall off easily and even with the diffuser it is overpowering, maybe I should try diffusing that as well, light is a problem with dragonfly wings and even on the compound eyes, I am also sure I should be getting better results from my 60mm macro lens maybe I have a dud one or more likely a shake in my old age, thanks appreciate the help
best regards
Roger

Ross the fiddler
8th October 2015, 01:18 PM
I think diffusing any flash for that is a good idea, & lowering the power output.

Lakota
8th October 2015, 01:23 PM
thanks Ross

Graham_of_Rainham
8th October 2015, 01:33 PM
You can use the Olympus STF-22 Twin Flash with mft cameras.

However, you may want to consider continuous light (LEDs) and something like this can be "knocked up" for very little cost.

http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/500/LED_Macro_Light.jpg (http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/50939)

The LED panels have got a lot brighter, than when I made this.

Lakota
8th October 2015, 05:03 PM
Thanks Graham looks very interesting where did you get the led's from? The STF-22 according to dpreview is no longer available from Olympus its very expensive anyway, I have the metz ring flash but heavy and easily comes off and too powerful. I tried the metz 58 af2 wireless of camera using olympus flash that comes with camera seems to work ok but its holding the flash in the left hand and the camera in the right not ideal, I have the olympus macro arm light but not tried it much best regards Roger

Wee man
8th October 2015, 05:26 PM
I use the Metz ring flash which fits well on my 60 macro and also my Sigma 150. You can select power and direct the light, it also comes with a clip on diffuser. Uses camera flash to trigger it.

Graham_of_Rainham
8th October 2015, 05:45 PM
Thanks Graham looks very interesting where did you get the led's from?

EBAY (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-24-Leds-5050-SMD-LED-Car-Interior-Dome-Roof-Ceiling-Reading-Light-T10-12V-/151258571079?hash=item2337b6a147)

If I was doing it again I'd look for Ultra Bright "daylight" units

They can easily be dimmed and start at about 5V and run up to 12V

By pulling plugs I can adjust which panels are illuminated.

I also have seven T20 flash guns that I can arrange to get light where I want it.

*chr

Lakota
8th October 2015, 05:46 PM
Thanks Ed, I always use the diffuser on, but find that the clip for the olympus standard flash that comes with camera comes off very easy, I didn't know you could select the power I must check that out, thanks once again best regards
Roger

Lakota
8th October 2015, 05:48 PM
thanks Graham, do you use battery pack to power the led's
kind regards
Roger

Graham_of_Rainham
8th October 2015, 06:19 PM
I use a bench power supply inside and a battery pack outside.

One of these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-case-box-holder-for-x-8AA-size-cells-12V-3510-/281229567296?hash=item417a96a540) allows me to tap into the Voltage I want.

Lakota
8th October 2015, 06:20 PM
Thanks Graham appreciate the help

kind regards

Roger

Jim Ford
8th October 2015, 06:38 PM
I find the Metz ring flash does the job well.

Jim

Lakota
8th October 2015, 07:24 PM
Thanks Jim, I will take a look at the manual and figure out how to reduce power as even with the diffuser clipped on I am getting light reflections on dragonfly wings, might try adding extra diffuser
best regards

Roger

alfbranch
8th October 2015, 07:25 PM
I find that any flash with the right diffusion will do the job.

Here is my E-M1 with my latest set up fitted

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8597/16666879347_b13a491a70_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/roN7yK)Macro-rig (https://flic.kr/p/roN7yK) by Alf Branch (https://www.flickr.com/photos/32457074@N07/), on Flickr

Here is a shot taken without flash in bright sunlight

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/641/21711988535_119a5b86b9_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/z5BBKV)Fly with sunlight (https://flic.kr/p/z5BBKV) by Alf Branch (https://www.flickr.com/photos/32457074@N07/), on Flickr

Here is the same subject when the flash charged

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/631/21089285944_ca21392da8_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/y8A6Ym)Fly with flash (https://flic.kr/p/y8A6Ym) by Alf Branch (https://www.flickr.com/photos/32457074@N07/), on Flickr

I use a Nissin Di466
http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-nissin-di466-flashgun-olympus-panasonic-four-thirds/p1520760

alfbranch
8th October 2015, 07:27 PM
Here is a more basid set up

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3920/15057140275_e08462b337_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oWxMdP)at 150 mm with raynox (https://flic.kr/p/oWxMdP) by Alf Branch (https://www.flickr.com/photos/32457074@N07/), on Flickr

Here is a shot taken with it

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14924577322_2cc4600691_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oJQmSE)Hover-fly (https://flic.kr/p/oJQmSE) by Alf Branch (https://www.flickr.com/photos/32457074@N07/), on Flickr

alfbranch
8th October 2015, 07:33 PM
Here is a Damsel fly taken with the first set up without the extension tubes or Raynox 250 fitted

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5725/21379258562_98a380c323_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/yzdhJf)Damsel fly (https://flic.kr/p/yzdhJf) by Alf Branch (https://www.flickr.com/photos/32457074@N07/), on Flickr

Here is a flash bracket

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-C-Shape-C-Shape-Twin-Two-Flash-Light-Bracket-Stand-for-Photo-DSLR-Camera-DV-/121709671814?hash=item1c56763586

And a flash cable

http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-lastolite-off-camera-flash-cord-olympus/p1030301?mkwid=sthquumt4_dc&pcrid=86900559659&kword=&match=&plid=&gclid=cj0keqjwqniwbrdnq93mioaqtkqbeiqab7eznxlyfhxs cmat6wd-7pear02n6o2rkimfbrqtnc6x-iaaatk38p8haq

Lakota
8th October 2015, 07:35 PM
Thanks Alf
how do you get the sigma 105mm 2.8 lens to fit the olympus? I was thinking of buying the raynox 250 but not sure which one to buy for the olympus 60mm macro lens does it clip in place or do I need a step up ring? kind regards Roger

alfbranch
8th October 2015, 07:43 PM
Roger
For the Raynox you need a step up ring to use it with the clip on holder or a step down ring to screw it on directly I would go step up the you can clip it off as quick as a lens cap.

If you find a 4/3 fit sigma 105 you use a MMF1, 2 or 3 or third part converter and it will AF and the apperture control will work.

Edit with a link

http://www.olympus.co.uk/site/en/c/lenses/adapters_converters/adapters/mmf_3/index.html

Lakota
8th October 2015, 07:51 PM
Any idea what step up ring I need for the olympus 60mm macro? love the link for the bracket looks really cool and clever, going to order one now, I can try my metz 58 af2 flash wirelessly using the olympus flash that comes with the camera, will check ebay see if I can find a sigma lens, thanks for the awesome help and suggestions

Lakota
8th October 2015, 07:52 PM
i already have an olympus mmf3

Lakota
9th October 2015, 11:23 AM
Hi Alf if I use the olympus 60mm macro lens which is 46mm what step down ring would I need for the raynox 250 please?
and using the clip on what size step up ring
sorry to bother you but would appreciate your help in this matter
thanks very much
kind regards
Roger

alfbranch
9th October 2015, 12:56 PM
Roger
The rear filter thread is 43 mm on the raynox and without the available adapter to 46 mm the filter will fit 52 to 67 mm

Look here for info

http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcr250/indexdcr250eg.htm

Lakota
9th October 2015, 01:02 PM
so I need a ring to go from 43mm to 46mm ? looked at the video on the raynox site the images don't look very good?

alfbranch
9th October 2015, 11:04 PM
so I need a ring to go from 43mm to 46mm ? looked at the video on the raynox site the images don't look very good?

Roger Lighting is the key macro and good light makes all the difference look at the 2 fly shots in post #16

This guy is under 2mm long and shot using the three tubes the sigma 105 and the raynox at abot 3X magnification

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7588/17100225145_cb8bb08f2b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/s468b2)Katiannidae (https://flic.kr/p/s468b2) by Alf Branch (https://www.flickr.com/photos/32457074@N07/), on Flickr

Imageryone
10th October 2015, 08:11 AM
I use bubblewrap and toilet paper to reduce light from all flashes, works well and is CHEAP *chr

Harold Gough
16th November 2015, 02:06 PM
Here are my macro setups:

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/780820/25#13097035

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/780820/25#13097146

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/780820/25#13213668

The latest modification:

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/780820/25#13097035

Don't concern yourself with the particular lenses I am using but just get some ideas.

Harold

Mdb2
16th June 2016, 10:07 PM
Hi I also do a lot of dragonfly photography, I do believe a lot of the problem can be caused with having to shoot during the sunnier days for our subjects I am therefore leaning the other way with light.
As you are aware a lot of dragons/ damsels at this time of year are fresh emergence thus there wings are glossy anyway. I have just recently started using a polariser for my set up to try to lower the problem of shiny wings along with the water droplets on plants and the water surface of the pond/ lake/ river.
However cheap polarisers lose 2+ stops of light where as a good brand will cut this back to about 1 stop. Work in progress at the moment. But looking promising.
Kind regards Mike

Harold Gough
17th June 2016, 06:09 AM
Hi I also do a lot of dragonfly photography, I do believe a lot of the problem can be caused with having to shoot during the sunnier days for our subjects I am therefore leaning the other way with light.
As you are aware a lot of dragons/ damsels at this time of year are fresh emergence thus there wings are glossy anyway. I have just recently started using a polariser for my set up to try to lower the problem of shiny wings along with the water droplets on plants and the water surface of the pond/ lake/ river.
However cheap polarisers lose 2+ stops of light where as a good brand will cut this back to about 1 stop. Work in progress at the moment. But looking promising.
Kind regards Mike

Mike,

Polarisers only work with reflections in one plane. With uneven surfaces, droplets, etc., the remedial effect maybe minimal. (With actual metallic surfaces it may be zero). My subject matter for macro rarely requires polarisers, but I always purchased the best I could afford.

Harold

Mdb2
17th June 2016, 07:12 AM
Mike,

Polarisers only work with reflections in one plane. With uneven surfaces, droplets, etc., the remedial effect maybe minimal. (With actual metallic surfaces it may be zero). My subject matter for macro rarely requires polarisers, but I always purchased the best I could afford.

Harold

Good morning HAROLD, yes I agree with the proviso that it helps with sun in the right position, my understanding is that the original author was taking his photos of the dragon in the crucifix position during the day. Not many dragons hang around for a second shot if you mess up the first attempt with flash. In general dragons depending on the time lapse from emergence you can stand a better chance the earlier in the morning as possible for flash.

I have hinted at staying away from cheaper polarisers to the author. I found the Olympus 60mm macro to effect macro, IE one to one ratio. You have to get much to close to the subject. I don't even use my canon 100mm IS either preferring a 180mm macro to allow some distance from subject,most dragons would be off with a large white type diffuser and flash as well as a large predator coming at them. The downside of a 180 is weight, which for me is quite a priority therefore I chose the Tamron 180 mm. My go to kit for dragons is :- em1 metabones tamron 180 (canon fit) for close up or macro
And a Canon 7d2 with 300L prime. The latter is for DIF and distance if I do not think the subject is confiding enough, a slow cautious aproach is used until about a metre from the subject where by the em1/ tamron takes over.

Fortunately everyone does what they need to do to get the shot and it's good to hear what others do
Kind regards Mike

http://www.wingsofnature.org/

Harold Gough
17th June 2016, 05:33 PM
Mike,

On the morning shoot aspect, I have been finding Danceflies in my garden on the last two mornings but not in the afternoons. This is from a small sample of encounters but worth noting.

I shot a very special insect today. See tomorrow's upload.

Harold

Ralph Harwood
18th June 2016, 09:49 PM
Mike,

Polarisers only work with reflections in one plane. With uneven surfaces, droplets, etc., the remedial effect maybe minimal. (With actual metallic surfaces it may be zero). My subject matter for macro rarely requires polarisers, but I always purchased the best I could afford.

Harold

Hi there Harold!

I have spotted on ebay several times recently polarisers from olympus for the film camera ring flashes which have two polarisers - on for the flash and another (presumably set at 90 degrees) for the lens. Have you ever tried these and if so do they give any advantage? I'm slightly tempted since the cost of the old oly ring flash kits isn't too prohibitive, and the 60mm macro should shoot through the centre ok with no vignetting. The dual polarisers are probably the most expensive part of the kit at 60.

Cheers,

Ralph.

PS here's a link to ebay for one :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OLYMPUS-OM-T10-RING-CROSS-FILTER-POL-For-Ring-Flash1-JAPAN-/272273388638?hash=item3f64c2345e:g:9coAAOSwciVXP5l c

Harold Gough
19th June 2016, 06:56 AM
Hi there Harold!

I have spotted on ebay several times recently polarisers from olympus for the film camera ring flashes which have two polarisers - on for the flash and another (presumably set at 90 degrees) for the lens. Have you ever tried these and if so do they give any advantage? I'm slightly tempted since the cost of the old oly ring flash kits isn't too prohibitive, and the 60mm macro should shoot through the centre ok with no vignetting. The dual polarisers are probably the most expensive part of the kit at 60.

Cheers,

Ralph.

Ralph,

a) I have a set

b) It was years before I found one I could afford

c) I have never used them seriously, mainly because my subjects don't really need them.

d) Consider the thickness taking up working distance, as with ring flash in the first place. This was my major reason for not using them, just as I now avoid using ring flash for digital macro.

e) Beware of the polariser coating separating away, as it had done with my first set.

f) These will not help you with jewellery photography.

g) The fitting is for 49mm filter thread.

h) Grab a set while you can, if the price is right?

Harold