E1 Bracketing Question

[Garrie]

Hey all,

Just a quick question regarding bracketing on the E1. Was on a little explore today and struggled with the bracketing.

Is is possible to bracket if the shutter speed is in excess of 2 seconds? I couldn't managed it, say at 0ev the shutter speed was 1 second exposed correctly the camera wouldn't allow the +1 and +2 ev to be any more than 2 seconds. have I missed a setting some where?

Cheers
G

[DekHog]

Don't have the E-1 in Aberdeen with me this week, but if no one has tried it for you by Friday I'll give it a go with my own when I get home and let you know if the same thing happens - sounds like one of these 'quirks' that they build in for some reason, but fail to tell anyone about... :confused:

[Naughty Nigel]

I tried it with mine, and had the same result. I tried selecting the noise reduction (blank exposure subtraction) system, but got the same result.

I noticed that the shutter speed number flashes below a certain value, (not too sure what that is), and that bracketing refused to work below that speed. I cannot think why at present, but I'm sure there is a logical explanation somewhere. :confused:

[Wreckdiver]

Works perfectly OK on my E-1. I set to 5 frames at 1EV steps and then started with shutter set to 1s (bracketed shots: 0.25s, 0.5s, 2s 4s) then at 2s (bracketed shots: 0.5s, 1s, 4s, 8s) and then at 4s (bracketed shots: 1s, 2s, 8s, 15s). At no point did the shutter speed indication blink. Checked the metadata and all aboves times confirmed.

Steve

[DekHog]

Looks like time for a detailed comparison of settings... I'd be interested to know what it is myself?

[Chillimonster]

Could it be dark frame substraction?

[Wreckdiver]

What firmware versions do you all have? I have 1.5.

Steve

[DekHog]

Could it be dark frame substraction?

Nigel tried it with and without noise reduction and had the same symptoms as Garrie both ways, so probably rules that out...

[andym]

Just tried it on mine with no problem.

I'll have a look at my settings later.

Ps mines on firmware 1.4

[Wreckdiver]

The settings I had on my above tests were f/2.8, raw and ISO Auto.

I repeated the above 3 tests with same timings. This time I had Noise Reduction on, ISO 100, f/16. Again, all was OK.

Steve

[Garrie]

All sorted..

I was being a numpty. As I don't yet have a wired remote shutter release for the E1 I was using a little infra red control and for some reason it limited the shutter speed to a max for 4 seconds, all other drive modes don't limited the shutter speed :D

Cheers
G

[DekHog]

I always find attaching a wired remote to the E-1 an excercise fraught with danger... that tiny screw on cap is a cert to get lost, then trying to align the pins (sometimes in the dark) can be a time-consuming and sometimes nigh on impossible task. Very bad design on the part of Olympus.

[Wreckdiver]

I always find attaching a wired remote to the E-1 an excercise fraught with danger... that tiny screw on cap is a cert to get lost, then trying to align the pins (sometimes in the dark) can be a time-consuming and sometimes nigh on impossible task. Very bad design on the part of Olympus.

I broke the plug on my remote a couple of times but managed to fix it each time with Araldite. It broke for a third time and then I couldn't repair it so I sent it off to Olympus. They didn't repair my remote but sent me a new one instead, and at no charge. Fantastic service.

The plug is of a weak design and I recommended to Olympus that the plug would be much stronger if it was right-angled. It could also be much bigger, it doesn't need to be so small.

One thing to note is that if you overtighten the locking ring by only a small amount it will shatter the plug, as I found out the first time I broke mine. I tend now to either just push in the plug but not screw the locking ring in, or at least just half a turn.

I have also heard that some people fit a small rubber grommet to the ring to help get a better grip.

Steve

[Naughty Nigel]

I seem to remember an ingenious invention in days of olde, whereby the shutter release button on many cameras was equiped with a small, threaded hole, into which a concentric steel cable and sleeve could be screwed.

The other end of the cable was equiped with a small knob or thumb plate, (usually chromium plated), which was attached to the inner cable. When firm thumb pressure was applied to this plate, the motion was transmitted to a mechanism beneath the shutter button, which in turn operated the camera's shutter.

I think these were known as a Shutter Cable Release or similalr.

I know we have the technology to put a man (or woman) onto Mars, but why do modern cable release systems have to be so expensive and complex? *chr

[skyman1]

Ah you are trying to make me feel old as in days of olde i have one of those built into a pistol type grip that screws in to the tripod thread!

[Imageryone]

If you look on a certain site that begins with J*****s, they sell a bracket so you can use a cable release. and also an Air release, which lets you stand 30ft from the camera. I have some of both:cool::cool: they always worked with my OM cameras.