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CMFotos
7th February 2015, 06:49 AM
How can I interrupt this conection?
I mean, if I'm using the electronic viewfinder, I don't want it to become darker when I reduce aperture... otherwise I can't see anything e.g. when using flash in studio... I would like keeping my viewfinder bright even if I change aperture or time. Anybody an idea?

Pistnbroke
7th February 2015, 08:07 AM
EVF auto luminence on..menu gear wheel ..down the bottom (off the page) EVF adjust.

CMFotos
7th February 2015, 09:11 AM
Yes I did allready try. I have it on auto but the viewfinder gets dark all the same if I close aperture... is it a failure of my camera?

Pistnbroke
7th February 2015, 09:20 AM
no change in brightness f 3.5-F22 in normal room light levels even with a flash connected and it stays at iso 200 ..

Need a better expert on the Oly than me !!!

Harold Gough
7th February 2015, 10:12 AM
With EP-2 and EM-1 I have Live View Boost switched on.

Harold

Pistnbroke
7th February 2015, 10:22 AM
My live view boost is off so thats not it

Harold Gough
7th February 2015, 10:31 AM
My live view boost is off so thats not it

Precisely. Unless I have completely misunderstood something, turn it on.

Harold

Zuiko
7th February 2015, 10:31 AM
Under normal operation the EVF is designed to display real time exposures, including the effects of exposure compensation. Obviously, if using flash in a studio, particularly if the camera is set to manual exposure, this can be a problem.

You need to set Live View Boost, which gives priority to a clear view rather than displaying exposure accuracy.

Gears menu D

>

Scroll down to 2nd page

>

Live View Boost

>

Turn On.


Hope this helps.

EDIT I see Harold beat me to it!

Harold Gough
7th February 2015, 10:39 AM
Yes, beware of false exposure indications when reviewing in-camera images. With live boost 'on' the image will look pretty good even if under-exposed a stop or two.

Harold

Ricoh
7th February 2015, 10:42 AM
This has me thinking... given diffraction limits for useful f number, not having LVB enabled might be an advantage for 'experiencing' real time exposure.

Do most users have it enabled or not?

Harold Gough
7th February 2015, 10:46 AM
This has me thinking... given diffraction limits for useful f number, not having LVB enabled might be an advantage for 'experiencing' real time exposure.

Do most users have it enabled or not?

Being involved almost daily with macro, small apertures and diffraction, I don't understand this question. LVB is like having a bright modelling light which is not used for exposure.

Harold

Ricoh
7th February 2015, 10:50 AM
Sorry I didn't make my self clear. With it disabled the user can see the effects of EV, with it on the finder looks the same intensity.

Harold Gough
7th February 2015, 10:50 AM
Another issue is probably down to full-time LVB.

With my EP-2, not having TTL dedicated flash, I did a lot more macro in sunlight with ambient exposure. I often found that the contrast between light and dark areas of a leaf (on which the insect was standing) looked extreme, although it was fine in the final image.

Harold

Harold Gough
7th February 2015, 10:53 AM
Sorry I didn't make my self clear. With it disabled the user can see the effects of EV, with it on the finder looks the same intensity.

Sort of. I don't think it's all or nothing. I'm out of practice, now using flash much more.

Harold

Ross the fiddler
7th February 2015, 11:03 AM
How can I interrupt this conection?
I mean, if I'm using the electronic viewfinder, I don't want it to become darker when I reduce aperture... otherwise I can't see anything e.g. when using flash in studio... I would like keeping my viewfinder bright even if I change aperture or time. Anybody an idea?

I don't think anybody has asked you what Mode you're using. Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, iAuto or Manual? If you're using Manual (or exposure compensation in A or S etc), then the display is going to follow the exposure (emulated) output & Live View Boost is needed to see the subject if shutter & aperture settings are going to give you that dark display result without it (LVB).

Harold Gough
7th February 2015, 11:08 AM
I don't think anybody has asked you what Mode you're using. Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, iAuto or Manual? If you're using Manual (or exposure compensation in A or S etc), then the display is going to follow the exposure (emulated) output & Live View Boost is needed to see the subject if shutter & aperture settings are going to give you that dark display result without it (LVB).

I should clarify that I use almost entirely manual mode with stopped down apertures. The mention of diffraction, dark screens, etc. suggested to me that this was the scenario beeing discussed too.

Harold

Ross the fiddler
7th February 2015, 11:10 AM
I should clarify that I use almost entiely manual mode with stopped down apertures. The mention of diffraction, dark screens, etc. suggested to me that this was the scenario beeing discussed too.

Harold

Yes, but what mode is CMFotos actually talking about? He probably is referring to Manual, I guess.

Pistnbroke
7th February 2015, 12:55 PM
I just tried the viwfinder boost and the increased frame rate and it did not make any difference..I just tried it and its all to do with you being in M mode which does not support auto iso.....
If you are in your studio why not use A mode ...say F8 which will mean you view at f 3.5? and set your min speed to say 1/60 to suit the flash ..if you have a flash connected it goes to 200 iso anyway...

I never use manual thats too 1960 and hassleblad except for fireworks...but if you put the viewfinder boost on you get a nice bright veiwfinder even in manual.

CMFotos
7th February 2015, 02:25 PM
I was using manual indeed and yes the solution is LVB Live View Boost has to be set on! Thank you all for the help!

Harold Gough
7th February 2015, 02:38 PM
I was using manual indeed and yes the solution is LVB Live View Boost has to be set on! Thank you all for the help!

All the best people do! :)

With my EP-2 I used legacy OM T-System flash, either metered by T32 onboard meter or, for macro, calibarted manula flash settings. The flash mode was Fill.

With my EM-1 I have full dedicated function with system flash gun, FL-50R, FL-300R and FL-LM2 on the hotshoe (flash illumination off but popped up) to give RC TTL control. Compulsory flash mode and RC are selected. This gives a great basic twin flash for macro. The 50 and 300 are off camera, on brackets via tiny ball heads.

Harold