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paullus
30th November 2013, 10:53 AM
Sorry very remiss of me. The title should read:
IBIS/S-IS.


One of the nicest things I've found about the menu system on the M-1 is the provision of information for some of the settings. For instance I remember having to refer to the E-5 manual to work out what each IBIS setting did. With the M-1 information stating what each setting does is given.
I now have to admit that I had just stuck mine on auto. However until 10 minutes ago when I sat down with my camera for another explore I hadn't realised that I'd selected option 5, (option 1 being "Off") which is S-IS Auto for Landscape Panning I.S.
I haven't done any landscape panning yet and I'm wondering if my chosen S-IS setting was the cause of some unexpectedly blurred pictures of static objects I've experienced.
What are the thoughts on using the S-IS all of the time?
My thinking was that I.S. is for long lenses, low light or long exposure shots.
I'm now going to try using the M-1 with I.S. set to "Off" for a while to see the results. At the moment I have a nagging feeling that some of my pictures are not quite as sharp as those taken with my E-5 with the I.S. set to Auto.

BTW I have updated the firmware to 1.1 but have yet to properly compare its affect on AF.


Steve

photo_owl
30th November 2013, 11:37 AM
[SIZE=1]However until 10 minutes ago when I sat down with my camera for another explore I hadn't realised that I'd selected option 5, (option 1 being "Off") which is S-IS Auto for Landscape Panning I.S.
I haven't done any landscape panning yet and I'm wondering if my chosen S-IS setting was the cause of some unexpectedly blurred pictures of static objects I've experienced.

my understanding is that this setting will effectively switch off the horizontal axis IS function ie the camera believes that movements in that plane are deliberate because that's what you have told it!

as such, if your images required IS 'support' then yes, it could result in blurring, or, more specifically, it could fail to take care of such blurring. it won't actually create it.

I've now put mine in straightforward Auto and leave it - I've done enough macro/moon shots to be comfortable that it's clever enough to work when needed and not interfere when it's not.

I haven't tested panned shots in this mode (motorsport being the classic) yet though, and if I was to shoot such an event would probably switch to the mode you accidentially had set!

dogsbody
1st December 2013, 05:07 PM
I have just started to use the focal length adjustment on IS-1 I wonder how that affects the system?

Olybirder
1st December 2013, 05:15 PM
I have just started to use the focal length adjustment on IS-1 I wonder how that affects the system?
Do you mean setting the focal length for the lens? I assume you are not using m4/3 or 4/3 lenses as it is not designed to work with them. :)

Ron

dogsbody
1st December 2013, 06:13 PM
[QUOTE=Olybirder;267186]Do you mean setting the focal length for the lens? I assume you are not using m4/3 or 4/3 lenses as it is not designed to work with them. :)

Ron[/QUOTE

Well in a way that is great because it means the system is nice and simple. On the other hand it is glaringly obvious that I have not read the manual!

Overall I like the benefits of the former! Many thanks Olybirder!

Jonathan

ayewing
1st December 2013, 09:18 PM
I have been trying my Leica 280mm visoflex lens with a viso/LM adapter and my first efforts were quite blurry until I set the focal length correctly. The improvement was dramatic! The IBIS works remarkably well with long FL lenses.

magicaxeman
1st December 2013, 11:39 PM
I used to shoot a pentax many years ago, it to has inbody anti shake, again with that I found it was imperative to input the correct FL, it has to be the actual focal length of the lens, not the equivalent FL.

I even used it at prime focus on a 1200mm FL telescope via a T mount adaptor and the anti shake worked perfectly, reducing the effects of wind shake on the telescope.