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Iansky
7th November 2013, 09:39 AM
I love my EM1 but have noticed that the images (I shoot both Raw & Jpeg) do not appear as sharp as those I used to get from the EM5.

I am using the same editing techniques (OV3) so no issues with compatability but they just do not have the "bite" they should have and certainly not as sharp as the EM5.

I am waiting for a replacement 12mm as the images from that were too soft for a lens of this capability and have and do shoot mainly with primes that have all rendered stunning images with the EM5.

I am sure I have read somewhere that this may be an IBIS setting issue, I have reset the camera and not changed the IBIS setting so would appreciate any feedback from others on IBIS settings to use (standard street, people non fast action work) and any other exoperiences with "soft" images.

photo_owl
7th November 2013, 10:06 AM
surely if you suspect an IBIS issue you just switch it off in the first instance, to eliminate (or otherwise) it's activity from your concerns?

Ross the fiddler
7th November 2013, 10:56 AM
The other thing different to the E-M5 is the E-M1's been programmed to treat each lens individually with optimised results (sharpness etc.) for each lens, but one would have thought the 12mm lens would have given very sharp results. I think Ian has made comment in this area with these differences.

ozzie
7th November 2013, 11:07 AM
I love my EM1 but have noticed that the images (I shoot both Raw & Jpeg) do not appear as sharp as those I used to get from the EM5.

I am using the same editing techniques (OV3) so no issues with compatability but they just do not have the "bite" they should have and certainly not as sharp as the EM5.

I am waiting for a replacement 12mm as the images from that were too soft for a lens of this capability and have and do shoot mainly with primes that have all rendered stunning images with the EM5.

I am sure I have read somewhere that this may be an IBIS setting issue, I have reset the camera and not changed the IBIS setting so would appreciate any feedback from others on IBIS settings to use (standard street, people non fast action work) and any other exoperiences with "soft" images.

Hi Ian
I am using is1 so far and the image sharpness using my four thirds lens seems to be better than my E5 . It is only early days for me with the em1 but apart from user problems and a adaptor problem I am very happy with the camera
It certainly is a step up from the E5
Cheers
John

Iansky
7th November 2013, 11:36 AM
Hi Ian
I am using is1 so far and the image sharpness using my four thirds lens seems to be better than my E5 . It is only early days for me with the em1 but apart from user problems and a adaptor problem I am very happy with the camera
It certainly is a step up from the E5
Cheers
John


Thanks John,

I will try that, I was just wondering if others had experienced anything similar and turning off IBIS defeats the object of having it.

I have to admit to having been very busy work wise so not had time to read the manual so as yet I am not familiar with individual lens settings for sharpness, I remember from my days of owning my full frame I could "fine tune" sharpness for each individual lens.

Pensionista
7th November 2013, 11:48 AM
I received my em-1 on Tuesday from SRS. One thing I have experienced is that pictures using the default version of S-IS Auto (landscape panning) gave less than pin sharp results. I changed this to the 'vanilla' S IS1, and there was an immediate improvement. I also changed the Focus Adjust in cog K menu to 'default' (factory setting is 'OFF') with a 50-200 swd lens attached and it seemed to improve the accuracy of the focus. Caveat: Everything was done inside and through a window on the dire rainy days we've had, so this is preliminery. Hope this gives some ideas to try.

Iansky
7th November 2013, 11:58 AM
Thanks All,

I will give these suggestions a try.

Great thing about this forum, someone has always experienced similar problems, resolved it and has a viable suggestion........brilliant and one of the reasons this is the best site on the net!!

David Morison
7th November 2013, 01:35 PM
As I have highlighted in a earlier thread, I too had difficulties whe I first used my E-M1 with IBIS and softness using the 75-300mm. I recalled that I had the same issue with IBIS on my new E5 and E-M5. However in all three cases it spontaneously resolved itself and the softness with the 75-300 has too. I've no idea what is going on but now I'm very happy with the new camera.

David

Ian
7th November 2013, 03:14 PM
Ross's point about E-M1 lens profiling which includes specific lens model sharpening is important. Some lenses mean image are sharpened less on an E-M1 than on an E-M5 or E-P5. This only relates to in-camera JPEGs, though.

Ian

Iansky
7th November 2013, 03:43 PM
Ross's point about E-M1 lens profiling which includes specific lens model sharpening is important. Some lenses mean image are sharpened less on an E-M1 than on an E-M5 or E-P5. This only relates to in-camera JPEGs, though.

Ian


Thanks Ian,

I have to admit to using Raw for all my work and I suspect it is either "operator headspace" being a new user (and not having read the manual) coupled with not having the camera set up correctly yet so still going through the evaluative learning curve.

I have done a Reset but not as yet checked IS setting to ensure it is set to IS 1 so must do that.

I am however pretty confident that the 12mm I received was "soft" and should receive the replacement very soon..........I hope.

jonand
7th November 2013, 05:53 PM
I too am a new EM1 user, but can report that the only issue of image softness (compared to my EM5) experienced to date has been with my (very sharp) Canon 135mm f2 via an adaptor. I've tried with and without the IS (normally set to IS1) but havent come to any useful conclusion yet.

Good luck
Jon

brian1208
7th November 2013, 06:52 PM
Jon, probably a stupid question but have you set the focal length for the IS when using this lens?

If not, that may be worth a look

Olybirder
7th November 2013, 10:48 PM
I received my em-1 on Tuesday from SRS. One thing I have experienced is that pictures using the default version of S-IS Auto (landscape panning) gave less than pin sharp results. I changed this to the 'vanilla' S IS1, and there was an immediate improvement.
That is interesting. Is the default setting for the IS 'S-IS Auto'? I checked mine tonight and it was set to that. I assumed that the default setting would be the all-singing-all-dancing 5 axis stabilization. I have changed it to 'S-IS1' now so I will see if that can help me get some sharper shots.

Ron

Ross the fiddler
7th November 2013, 11:30 PM
That is interesting. Is the default setting for the IS 'S-IS Auto'? I checked mine tonight and it was set to that. I assumed that the default setting would be the all-singing-all-dancing 5 axis stabilization. I have changed it to 'S-IS1' now so I will see if that can help me get some sharper shots.

Ron

Any of the IS in the E-M1 is the "all-singing-all-dancing 5 axis stabilization" & it is just which mode you use it in that makes the difference (for each appropriate application).

photo_owl
7th November 2013, 11:30 PM
That is interesting. Is the default setting for the IS 'S-IS Auto'? I checked mine tonight and it was set to that. I assumed that the default setting would be the all-singing-all-dancing 5 axis stabilization. I have changed it to 'S-IS1' now so I will see if that can help me get some sharper shots.

Ron

I haven't noticed a difference (yet)...they seem to work the way I expect.

Olybirder
7th November 2013, 11:37 PM
Any of the IS in the E-M1 is the "all-singing-all-dancing 5 axis stabilization" & it is just which mode you use it in that makes the difference (for each appropriate application).

Yes, I didn't express that very well did I. As I understand it, S-IS 1 provides stabilization in all 5 axes, as required, whereas S-IS Auto detects horizontal or vertical panning and provides stabilization as appropriate. Is that correct?

Ron

StephenL
8th November 2013, 07:40 AM
Yes, I didn't express that very well did I. As I understand it, S-IS 1 provides stabilization in all 5 axes, as required, whereas S-IS Auto detects horizontal or vertical panning and provides stabilization as appropriate. Is that correct?

Ron
That was my understanding. I too have set mine to vanilla SIS 1.

jonand
8th November 2013, 08:47 AM
Jon, probably a stupid question but have you set the focal length for the IS when using this lens?

If not, that may be worth a look

Thanks for that Brian. I hadnt set the fl, will play more at the weekend.

Phill D
8th November 2013, 09:10 PM
I've just reset mine to SIS 1 too. Why would that make a difference though?

Olybirder
8th November 2013, 09:39 PM
I've just reset mine to SIS 1 too. Why would that make a difference though?
I think it is something to do with the little elves working in the stabilization system. When S-IS 1 is switched on they all join hands and concentrate on holding the picture steady. In the other modes some of them aren't needed, so they get bored and spend the time picking their noses, peering out of the viewfinder and meddling with the settings in the menus. The others can't cope with holding the picture steady on their own, so it goes wobbly. I think this is the explanation but I am not sure anyone has proved it scientifically yet. ;)

Ron

Phill D
8th November 2013, 10:01 PM
..........LoL :p

Xenon
9th November 2013, 09:58 AM
I think it is something to do with the little elves working in the stabilization system. When S-IS 1 is switched on they all join hands and concentrate on holding the picture steady. In the other modes some of them aren't needed, so they get bored and spend the time picking their noses, peering out of the viewfinder and meddling with the settings in the menus. The others can't cope with holding the picture steady on their own, so it goes wobbly. I think this is the explanation but I am not sure anyone has proved it scientifically yet. ;)

Ron

Brilliant, Ron! :D

photo_owl
9th November 2013, 10:57 AM
I think it is something to do with the little elves working in the stabilization system. When S-IS 1 is switched on they all join hands and concentrate on holding the picture steady. In the other modes some of them aren't needed, so they get bored and spend the time picking their noses, peering out of the viewfinder and meddling with the settings in the menus. The others can't cope with holding the picture steady on their own, so it goes wobbly. I think this is the explanation but I am not sure anyone has proved it scientifically yet. ;)

Ron

This is also my understanding.

In S IS Auto, you also have pixies - they are there to decide what's going on and which elves can, and must, take a coffee break for that shot.
As you outline, what the elves actually do during their coffee breaks isn't specified in the system :rolleyes:

bilbo
9th November 2013, 11:10 AM
Not to mention the imp...

http://www.wizardofthewoods.com/discworld.html

StephenL
9th November 2013, 02:16 PM
Are the naughty pixies put in pix-cells?

brian1208
9th November 2013, 02:51 PM
The rain cleared for a short while so I stood on my conservatory step and took pot-shots at gulls as the whizzed over my garden (less than a second transit with trees, shrubs and houses getting in the way).

Set up in my "New" way, CAF, Focus Lock Normal, 6fps and release without focus confirmation.

Using this I got greater than 50% of the frames sharp from far distant (less than 10% of frame) to filling the frame as they passed over head.

It all seems to be working well at the moment (IS/1 with 9 box centre grid by the way )

Iansky
9th November 2013, 04:54 PM
I have changed the settings and now have IS. 1 set and in Utilities/lens focus I have selected lens and have +2 set and it seems to have rectified the focus issues, it is a shame that I have to tweak the camera like this but if it now delivers sharp images.......so be it.

A couple from today with the new settings:

PanaLeica 25mm f1.4 - 200 ISO 1/200 @ f4

http://www.e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/1681/The_watcher.jpg

Panasonic 100 - 300 - 210mm ISO 640 1/320 @ f5

http://www.e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/1681/Thistle4.jpg

brian1208
9th November 2013, 05:03 PM
That's interesting Ian, so do I understand right, tweaking that setting is changing how the M4/3rds lenses are focusing (I thought it only applied to 4/3rds lenses in PDAF?)

Sounds a great functionality if it does, I must have a go :)

(those images look good by the way, I particularly like the portrait, she has an almost wistful look on her face)

bilbo
9th November 2013, 05:24 PM
I particularly like the portrait, she has an almost wistful look on her faceShe's having a break from waiting for her E-M1 to arrive. :)

photo_owl
9th November 2013, 05:51 PM
(I thought it only applied to 4/3rds lenses in PDAF?)



so did I - that's why there are 37 of them to adjust in this utility rather than 81........ *chr

Iansky
9th November 2013, 07:55 PM
The settng very much reminds me of when I had my full frame Nikon and could "fine tune" focus for various lenses.

I used the Oly 45mm as my set up lens and it seems to have resolved the issue, not sure what it actually does but it certainly made the difference, I have also set the focus square to the small size as I always thought the one in the EM5 was too large and the standard one in the EM1 was too, smaller one works for precise focusing.

Just waiting for my replacement 12mm to arrive so I can put all my primes through their paces.

Thank you to all those who have made suggestions that have worked and for sharing your findings with all on the site.

brian1208
9th November 2013, 08:30 PM
thanks Ian, something else to give a try when the chance arises

Peter_Hartland
9th November 2013, 10:16 PM
Link to check IS problem/ broken
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQS2Sl8OibI

brian1208
9th November 2013, 10:34 PM
I thought it was necessary to turn IS off when using the tripod, otherwise you get unstable images as the IS attempts to compensate for movement it is not designed to handle?

As here in the manual

• When using a tripod, set [Image Stabilizer] to [OFF].

jmunkki
9th November 2013, 10:58 PM
In order to compensate for movement electronically (as opposed to a purely mechanic stabilisation), you have to measure movement. The E-M1 probably has a motion sensor/gyroscope similar to what the iPhone has. Sensors like that are not perfectly accurate. If you know the camera is absolutely fixed and can not move, it make sense to turn IS off, so that the noise from the motion sensor doesn't activate the IS when the camera really isn't moving.

brian1208
10th November 2013, 12:11 PM
Following up Ian's idea of using the Focus Adjust to improve focusing of m4/3rds lenses I had a quick play this morning

In SAF mode I saw no effect but in CAF mode I believe I was seeing an effect (I used the Default option and went from zero to + /- 5

Using Zero adjustment, CAF on my 50 m focus target (the blue sand tower) was sharp but with = /- 5 both images were clearly out of focus.

Looks worth a longer, more detailed trial when time permits (unless anyone else fancies doing it? :) )

bilbo
10th November 2013, 12:20 PM
Looks worth a longer, more detailed trial when time permits (unless anyone else fancies doing it? :) )I think the adjustments are relevant only to your own copy of the lens. It's an individual thing. One copy might need adjustment, another might not...

David Morison
10th November 2013, 12:37 PM
Following up Ian's idea of using the Focus Adjust to improve focusing of m4/3rds lenses I had a quick play this morning

In SAF mode I saw no effect but in CAF mode I believe I was seeing an effect (I used the Default option and went from zero to + /- 5

Using Zero adjustment, CAF on my 50 m focus target (the blue sand tower) was sharp but with = /- 5 both images were clearly out of focus.

Looks worth a longer, more detailed trial when time permits (unless anyone else fancies doing it? :) )

I've been led to understand that focus adjust is not available or needed on CDAF but it is on PDAF. So when CAF is selected, even on m4/3 lenses, PDAF is employed and then focus adjust is available.

David

brian1208
10th November 2013, 12:39 PM
I think the adjustments are relevant only to your own copy of the lens. It's an individual thing. One copy might need adjustment, another might not...

Yes, they must be Brian - what I wasn't sure about was whether or not the Focus adjust function would work at all with m4/3rds lenses in CAF mode (it only works on the PDAF sites as I read the manual) so that was all I was testing for

My initial reading of the specs and various reviews was that this function was only relevant to 4/3rds lenses but Ian appeared to be getting it to work with the m4/3rds

edit - just seen your input David, I'm coming to the same conclusion, not sure how useful it will be to me but its worth a bit more work I think (I found it useful with my 7D / 5Dmk2 on a couple of lenses)