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Tordan58
13th February 2012, 11:59 AM
Hi,

I am experiencing a "fading display" on my E-620. After ~10 to 15 seconds, it fades and turns black after a second or so. Rotating the display, folding it and deploying it again turns it on again (for 10-15 seconds).

Except from this, camera works as it should.

Is this a power saving feature that I accidentally turned on? Or the effect of cold? (I don't think so since my E-600 behaves fine).

/Tord

SteveJ
13th February 2012, 04:04 PM
I think there is a power saving option somewhere, that switches the screen off. You can set it for whatever time you wish. I hope it's that, rather than a fault.

Steve

Ian
13th February 2012, 04:24 PM
Yes, you can set the camera to turn the back light off after a set time of inactivity. This is independent of the screen time out so you will still see the LCD according to incidental light as very dark grey againts black. I think it is wrench menu D (Display options).

Ian

Olybirder
13th February 2012, 04:35 PM
Yes, you can set the camera to turn the back light off after a set time of inactivity. This is independent of the screen time out so you will still see the LCD according to incidental light as very dark grey againts black. I think it is wrench menu D (Display options).

Ian
This is true but I think the minimum time setting for my E-30 is 1 minute (I don't know if it is the same for the E-620.) Tord says that his screen is dimming after 10-15 seconds.

Ron

blaggard
13th February 2012, 04:38 PM
I think the minimum on the 620 is only a matter of seconds, I've only just bought mine and yet to get right through the menu's though!

Olybirder
13th February 2012, 04:44 PM
Sorry, I was wrong. I was looking at the Sleep function instead of the Backlight Timer. For the E-30 the manual says '8 sec, 30 sec, 1 min or Hold'. That sounds better.

Ron

Ian
13th February 2012, 04:50 PM
Yup - the E-620 and probably all the other recent E-System DSLRs are similar. The backlight can be set to time out after as little as 8 seconds and the camera itself will go to sleep after one minute or other whole minute settings.

Ian

photonutter
13th February 2012, 05:38 PM
Had the same problem caused by a duff battery. After switching to a different one the screen stayed as it lit should.

Tordan58
13th February 2012, 11:23 PM
Hi,

Thanks for all hints but the behavior I experience is is different from the supposed behavior.

The settings in my camera (D menu -> Backlit LCD) says 30 sec, not 8 (which would have explained the 10-15 seconds I perceived). This time-out supposedly takes effect when in photo capture mode, not when displaying a photo.

The behavior started the other weekend, outdoors with temperatures around freezing point. The display does not abruptly turn black, it fades and after a second or so it gets black.

Bringing in the camera indoors the display backlight seems to work OK - with the exception that sometimes, after turning on the camera, the LCD stays black. In such a situation, touching the shutter release button activates the display.

Lastly, it cannot be the battery. I have tried 4 different batteries and get the same behavior.

Weird. Temperature seems to have an impact, and behavior is not 100% predictable.

This reminds me of a Canon Powershot G4, one of the first digital cameras with rotating display (same design as the E620). Out of a sudden the display stopped working. I had to fallback to using the viewfinder. Some days later it started working again, and has ever since.

Dirt leading to bad contact?

/Tord

j.baker
14th February 2012, 07:28 AM
It could be the cold weather.

LCD screens, which most cameras/phones have, are affected by the cold. This makes their response slower, which would give the effect of fading/blurring. The dashboard screen in my car had this problem over the last week. After warming up, the problem goes away.

The camera also switches of the LCD backlight when in powersave. Touching a control/button will bring it back to full power.

Ian
14th February 2012, 08:09 AM
Tord - does the problem continue indoors where it is warm?

Ian

Tordan58
14th February 2012, 09:43 AM
Ian,

The problem with fading display seems not to happen in indoor temperatures. At least, I have not been able to trigger it when testing indoors.

However some other observations are worthwhile mentioning:


The behavior with fading display started some 2-3 weeks ago while on a photo session in temperatures around freezing point. For the record, another person, also using E620 during the same photo sessions as me has not experienced a fading display. This indicates there is an LCD related issue with my E620 body, possibly temperature sensor, possibly the backlight illumination, possibly LCD as such, or a combination.

Every now and then (even indoors) the display remains black after power on. This occurs in random fashion, perhaps one time out of ten or so. To display the super control panel you need to either press the shutter release button, switch to display mode and then back to capture mode (i.e. pressing the blue arrow twice), or folding and re-deploying the display. This could be a sensor failure detecting wheather display is deployed in operational mode (and should be illuminated), or folded (and should be black). This behavior started some time back, to the best of my memories already last autumn.



/Tord

Ross the fiddler
14th February 2012, 10:59 AM
To me it sounds like a connection problem where there is a resistive connection somewhere. This could be either a dry solder point in the display (or in the camera) or oxidised contacts of a ribbon cable etc. which will work less reliably in more extreme conditions. This may need to be cleaned & re-seated or maybe even resoldering to possibly fix this. Unfortunately, it sounds like a service job.

My E30, after switching on, sometimes may show a Scene mode when the Mode Dial is actually on A & it's fixed by rotating the mode dial & back again, which is enough to make correct contact again (until the next time).

I hope it can be solved without too much expense.

Tordan58
24th February 2012, 09:34 AM
Hi

This weekend temperatures as high as 5C are expected, I will put the camera on test and let you know the outcome.
/Tord

Swordfish
26th February 2012, 06:36 PM
I had a similar problem with an E620 last year; as it was still under 2 year warranty (just), and I was getting nowhere with it myself, I sent it back to Olympus for repair - they fitted a new screen and it was then perfect.

I know that I had not changed any settings before it suddenly started misbehaving, so it was clearly an internal fault.

Martin

Tordan58
26th February 2012, 08:23 PM
Hi,

Photo session this afternoon in temperatures clearly above freezing point (4C), way above the spec for the camera working range. Display is fading. I guess it must be broken.

crimbo
26th February 2012, 09:57 PM
does it happen in LV mode?

Tordan58
27th February 2012, 02:03 PM
I have not checked, don't use LV that often. May I ask what LV could have to do with this behavior?
/Tord

crimbo
27th February 2012, 06:55 PM
Well I was thinking...the data on the screen will come from a different place than the LV data.
If the screen fails with LV then it is the screen and display part that is failing while if the LV works and the screen data still fails then it is the data source... might be further info for when it goes for repair

Ross the fiddler
27th February 2012, 09:15 PM
Well I was thinking...the data on the screen will come from a different place than the LV data.
If the screen fails with LV then it is the screen and display part that is failing while if the LV works and the screen data still fails then it is the data source... might be further info for when it goes for repair

To me, it just sounds typical of a bad connection to the actual liquid crystal display & if a digital watch can be used as an example, it uses a rubber strip with conductive channels (carbon enriched) in it & this sits between the gold (usually) contacts of the LCD & the same on the main PCB. The contacts can tarnish & the connecting strip can become unreliable in its connection. This is likely to have a plug in connection &/or a permanent soldered connection at one end & the plug just might need reseating or the display itself is dying. Whatever the fault is, I'm afraid the only fix can be at Olympus Service (or authorised repairer). I hope you can get it solved OK without too much expense.

Edit: For myself, I might be tempted to use a jewellers screw driver to at least take the display apart (being a flip out screen on the E620) to check if connections can be dealt with there, but I wouldn't advocate anybody else doing it unless they knew what they were doing.

Tordan58
26th March 2012, 12:55 PM
Hi again

The latest on this subject is that the display does fade even in +10-12C ambient temperature we are having now. However display will stay on for a minute at least, which is long enough to allow the camera to be operated without too much inconvenience.



/Tord

Ross the fiddler
26th March 2012, 01:51 PM
I thought you would have sent it into Olympus for repair by now, unless you are waiting for an E-M5. :confused:

Tordan58
20th April 2012, 07:29 AM
I thought you would have sent it into Olympus for repair by now, unless you are waiting for an E-M5. :confused:
Hi Ross and others,

The same issue with fading display has now also contaminated my second camera (E-600), on that camera the symptoms are much worse, the display is in principle useless. The displays is black except for the very few seconds. Operating the menus is kind of difficult, and displaying pictures is impossible.

Hence I contacted Olympus support (Sweden) with a detailed description of the symptoms and they offered me to repair the cameras at a fixed price of 2800 SEK each (that is about 260 each). A figure that seems a bit steep IMO. Is this figure in line with the cost that would be charged UK customers?

I have read several posts on this forum praising the Olympus support but this makes me wonder...

Cameras are 2+ years old. Considering I also had a Zuiko lens fail 26 months after purchase this makes me wonder if ...


/Tord

blaggard
20th April 2012, 07:35 AM
Olympus have a single price whatever the fault and so undertake to refurbish the camera. I had a scratched LCD screen on my 620 for which they quoted 180, when I questioned the price the repair Policy was explained to me. Luton Cameras (their main distributor/repair agent here in the UK) quoted 10 for the part and 25 for the labour. Ultimately I had the job done locally but the part waas supplied by Luton. The man who repaired the camera said that Nikon USA have decided to stop supplying parts to ANY external repair centres meaning that THEY are the only route available.
Have you not got an Olympus agent in Sweden?

Tordan58
20th April 2012, 07:57 AM
Thanks,

Yes as I mentioned I have been in contact with Olympus support in Sweden. It seems the repair price list is depending on country...

Would you recommend me contacting Luton Cameras and check with them if they are interested in having a look and if possible fix the camera? I have read on this forum they are great.

/Tord

blaggard
20th April 2012, 08:26 AM
No you misunderstand, Olympus will want to charge you the refurb price, here we have Luton Cameras who are an Approved Agent for Olympus and you will see from my earlier post the difference it makes to the price. If you don't have an equivalent in Sweden maybe you can send it to Luton Cameras here in the UK for the repair. **Just read your last post properly, yes definitely enquire at Luton Cameras, a quick phone call will do it, they are really helpful**

Ross the fiddler
20th April 2012, 09:13 AM
If you have two cameras with a similar fault & you had a lens fail at some point in time too, then I would have to question the enviroment the equipment is kept in. We have had a lot of rain here around Sydney for several months & mould has been an issue to deal with (something we don't have to deal with normally) & that could have been quite damaging to my gear if I hadn't noticed it soon enough. I am suggesting that moisture is getting into your cameras (could just be condensation) & is not drying out quick enough. I think you need to have another look at how you store your camera gear etc. & how you dry it out after shooting in harsh freezing conditions. A cabinet with an incadescant light globe (25 Watts is all you need so long as it isn't too close) can be usefull in creating a dry area for the gear to dry out sufficiently. Ideally it should have a temperature control unit to make sure it doesn't over heat (reptile heating control equipment would be good). I hope you can sort out your gear issues.

Tordan58
20th April 2012, 09:26 AM
Thanks for sharing this useful information.
I will contact Luton Camera repair.

/Tord

Tordan58
20th April 2012, 09:54 AM
If you have two cameras with a similar fault & you had a lens fail at some point in time too, then I would have to question the enviroment the equipment is kept in. ....
Good catch. Common denominator is use of equipment in cold conditions (not extreme, though, down to -10 perhaps). I haven't observed any visible condensation. I haven't used the equipment in moist/humid conditions or exposed it to rain.
And for the record I have also a E520 that has survived 5 winters and not let me down. I suspect the swivel display is the culprit.

/Tord

Ross the fiddler
20th April 2012, 10:39 AM
I suspect the swivel display is the culprit. /Tord

Yes, maybe you were just the unlucky one with failures there, however I'm going to hazard another guess. ;) Maybe the cold is the culprit with the wires cracking at -10 degrees. If you had only moved the display when the camera had warmed up inside, then they might have lasted a long time, but bend any plastic (& metal) in below freezing temperatures, then fracturing is bound to occur. If this is the case, then the display wiring will have to be replaced & I suggest in the future, don't move the display in any cold conditions until it has warmed up.

I hope it is all repairable for you. *chr

PeterBirder
20th April 2012, 12:20 PM
Yes, however I'm going to hazard another guess. ;) Maybe the cold is the culprit with the wires cracking at -10 degrees.



I'd agree with that. The camera manual states;

Operating environment 0 degrees C - 40degrees C.

Hope you can get both fixed.

Regards.

Tordan58
31st May 2012, 01:53 PM
Hi all

Here is the latest on this subject. (Apologies for bothering you with these issues but I think the topic could be of interest for others, owners of E600/E620).

Today I picked up the broken E600 (the one where the display stopped working). My intention was to collect the CF card I had left in the slot.

I started by turning power on, just to check, display still remains black as anticipated. Next I accidentally open the card slot without turning power off and the display shows the warning message about CF card slot open! So I close the slot, press the menu button and now the menus are displayed on the display! And also I can playback photos stored on the CF card!

I turn power off and on. Display is still working, at least for minutes.

One feature is still not working though (maybe I am wrong on this). When turning the camera on, should'nt the display show the control panel automatically? Or is this a user defined setting?

Anyway, this is a total mystery. Has the camera self-healed?

I will have to try on the E620 as well and see what the result is. (camera on loan, will get it back later today).

/Tord