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birdboy
8th June 2011, 10:33 PM
I have convinced myself I have a focusing problem with my camera and lenses 12-60mm swd & 50-200mmswd. My general feeling is that I do not get the pin sharp pictures I once used to get. I feel I should be getting better pictures as I develop techniques and better equipment i.e. tripods. My wife thinks my pictures are great and itís all in my mind. I do not know whether all my surfing on the internet has coloured my judgment. My main hobby is photography feathered birds, I am not a twitcher I take the picture and we try and identify the birds from books etc.

I have had my E3 since July 2008 and was very pleased with the pictures I took with it. In Feb 2010 I had a repair done to the screen (screws fell out). At this time I did some searching on the internet to see if others had had this problem and I also got interested in some of the other issues that seemed to be around at that time. When the camera came back March 2009 the pictures seemed good at first then from about May 2010 it seemed even harder to get good sharp pictures. I did have an incident where the camera was accidently knocked over on its stand when it was only about a foot off the ground. The pictures were ghosting / soft and the whole frame seemed to lack definition. But occasionally I get very good sharp pictures. Nothing seems consistent. I like to take birds in flight using high shutter speeds 1/1000sec +. I contacted Olympus customer support in July 2010 and emailed them the pictures. They suggested several things which I had already tried. In the end I returned the camera for a check it came back no fault found. I have since heard someone who had the camera back from Olympus only to find their problem still existed, but it was eventually fixed.
So the camera came back and I have persevered playing with settings and techniques. Sometimes I get very sharp pictures and that gives me a buzz. I have since revisited the forums and seen all sorts of problems over focusing and image stabilisation. I am now convinced that my E3 and or lenses are not performing as they should.

I have included an example of a picture which I feel shows my perceived problem. The picture was taken on a tripod and the focus light came up before I took the picture.

Is it me or does there seem to be a problem I just seem to be binning too many pictures?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

John

Wreckdiver
8th June 2011, 11:01 PM
That is a pretty badly focussed photo John. How did you focus, auto or manual? If auto what target mode did you use and what was the focal length of the lens? Does manual focus improve things?

Try using mirror lock-up (anti-shock) and a remote release or use the timer. I find that there is a significant improvement in quality by using anti-shock and my remote cable. Pick a subject and use just the single centre target and take a series of shots and see if there is any improvement.

Steve

Zuiko
8th June 2011, 11:32 PM
Hi John,

I see the problem but am not sure what is causing it. Are you using IS with the tripod? (This is not recommended)

As Steve said, it would be useful to know how your camera is set up to focus. You could test focus by mounting on a tripod and focusing on a fixed target, i.e. not a bird. The No 5 post in your picture would be a good target. Use anti shock and single target centre point as Steve suggests and take a picture using AF. Then switch to manual focus and use magnified live view to focus critically. If AF is working correctly you shouldn't see any difference in sharpness. Make sure you try this on a still day with ample anti shock time to allow all vibrations to settle and keep IS switched off. If both pictures are unsharp then something has been knocked out of alignmet, either in the camera of lens. If MF is sharp but not AF then the AF is faulty.

Nick Temple-Fry
9th June 2011, 12:04 AM
Looking at the shot (and it's difficult with the low res image posted and no exif) suggests that the camera has picked up focus on the water behind the bird, so the subject is oof ('cos it's in front of the focus point) and the sign is falling out of the focal range behind.

There could be all sort of reasons.

Try some some tests with the camera set to a single focal point and mounted on a tripod. Pick an obvious point and focus on it, repeat with various fixed subjects.

There were some focus issues with early E-3 cameras (not all), basically some in the first batch to reach the UK. But since then there have no reports of a 'model' problem.

The E-3 is a pretty tough camera, mine (amongst the first in the UK) has toppled from an extended tripod and followed me down when I've fallen over. You need to be pretty unlucky for a fall to cause harm.

Nick

birdboy
9th June 2011, 01:49 PM
Thanks for the replies.
The picture was focused using the continuous auto focus feature and I got indication it had focused. I tend to use single point small as the focus point. The picture was cropped and resized to comply with upload requirements. When I view my picture I view them in 1:1 and that’s where the problem really shows.

Exif info.
Hardware Info
Model E3
Camera ID Olympus Digital Camera
Lens Information Olympus 50-200mm F2.8-3.5SWD +_EC20
Software used Olympus Master 2.30W

Shooting Information
Shooting Mode A (Aperature Priority
Focal Length 364.0mm
Focal Length(equ) 728.0mm
Shutter 1/2000 sec
F. No F6.9
Exposure Comp 0.0EV
Flash OFF
Whitebalance Auto
PICTURE MODE NATURAL
Saturation 0
Contrast 0
Sharpness 0
Gradation AUTO
Colour Space sRGB IEC61966-2.1
Metering Mode ESP (ESP+AF)
ISO Sentivity 400
Focus Mode Continuous AF
Macro Off
Drive Sequential shooting (2Frame)
EXT. WB DETECT ON
Image Stability OFF
Image Information
Format Exif JPEG
Image size 1200 x 900
Resolution 300
Color Depth 16.7 million colors
File size 220.21KB
Shooting Date 31/05/2011 12:02:33

I am interested in the mirror lock feature I have this turned off. I have read Wrotniak guide but to be honest I do not understand. I turned it off because I sometimes want the 5fs feature. I will try the 2second setting and see if that makes a difference.
The picture was taken at f6.9 364mm (50-200mm swd + ec20) with a shutter of 1/2000sec C-AF ISO 400. The tripod was a RSP CF with Gitzo head 2180 from a bird hide at Mimsmere. I have IS turned off after much experimenting I believe that it has a detrimental effect on sharpness at shutter speeds over 1/80sec.
I know the EC20 loses stops and some clarity but what I think I get with far subjects is the effect as if none of the picture is in focus almost as if there is camera shake. What I do not understand is with a shutter speed of 1/2000 if that should negate any camera steadiness effect at the focal length I am shooting. I have also tried using the remote control cable and manual focus but get the same result.
Nick your experience of falling camera is very helpful for me as I have convinced myself that that may well be the problem. Steve and John’s thoughts about mirror lock are something I will experiment with.
John

Kiwi Paul
9th June 2011, 02:33 PM
That doesn't look like a focus issue to me but rather an exaggerated version of the problems I have when using IS on my E5, everything in the shot is blurred there appears to be nothing more in focus than anything else.
Try turning IS off and see what happens, with fast shutter speeds IS is redundant anyway, and not really needed if using a monopole and not all if using a tripod.

Edit
Sorry just read your next post and you already had IS turned off. That's a strange one, maybe it's a camera fault but nothing to do with shutter speed or IS etc but something to do with the processing of the image either that or the focus is miles out but that seems extreme. Try manual focus and see what happens as already has been suggested.

Paul

peak4
9th June 2011, 05:43 PM
Just a thought, you say the photo was taken with Continuous AF and small sensitivity.

The default for "release priority" for CAF, is on; that is the shutter will release without a focus confirmation.

Could it be that a slight camera movement takes the small AF point off the original target, and the shutter releases as the camera is changing focus to the new target?

Nick Temple-Fry
9th June 2011, 05:53 PM
I think the key to driving this forward is some test shots on a fixed object, preferably one with some details in front/behind (so you can see front/back focus) as suggested by John (Zuiko).

Probably best to do it with the aperture wide open (to reduce dof) and initially without the ec20. Once we see what those tell us we may get a better idea as to what to suggest next.

Nick

birdboy
9th June 2011, 08:23 PM
This is all very useful feedback for me thanks to you all.

I looked up more about mirror lock and played with some settings on a chimney pot not as interesting as birds but they don't want to hang arround for the 2 secs while the mirror stays locked up. There was a slight improvement.

I have stayed away from liveview but I tried it in manual focus and with my remote control. Using the enlarged display I can really see the challenge for the camera as any slight touch shakes the camera clearly when using the EC20. On reflection I should have shown a picture taken without the EC20.

Bill's (peak4) comment is an interesting one and maybe I should stay with SAF especially if I then were to use mirror lock as often my subjects move around. However if the subject does move out of focus between focus lock and firing the shutter some other point in the picture should be in focus and I cannot see any.

I did a quick test with the 50-200mmSWD without the EC20 in CAF. I focused on the cross over of the two tape measures with the camera mounted on my tripod (RSP CF with Gitzo head 2180). The camera was only 2.5m from the focus point however.

The Exit info is;
Hardware Info
Model E3
Camera ID Olympus Digital Camera
Lens Information Olympus 50-200mm F2.8-3.5SWD
Software used Olympus Master 2.30W

Shooting Information
Shooting Mode A (Aperature Priority
Focal Length 200.0mm
Focal Length(equ) 400.0mm
Shutter 1/400 sec
F. No F3.5
Exposure Comp 0.0EV
Flash OFF
Whitebalance Auto
PICTURE MODE NATURAL
Saturation 0
Contrast 0
Sharpness 0
Gradation AUTO
Colour Space Adobe RGB (1998)
Metering Mode CenterWeightedAverage
ISO Sentivity 100
Focus Mode Continuous AF
Macro Off
Drive Sequential shooting (1Frame)
EXT. WB DETECT ON
Image Stability OFF

Does this indicate what I can expect from this setup. I will do some tesing with the mirror lock tomorrow if the light is good.

This all seems to be telling me that it is me having unrealistic expectations when photographing far subjects and there is probalbly nothing wrong with the camera or lenses.

Once again thanks for all your replies.

John

Nick Temple-Fry
9th June 2011, 11:34 PM
Well that seems a reasonable result, though I'd suggest you retry the experiment on more distant fixed objects. But from that picture I can't see anything wrong.

I don't tend to use the 50-200 with the ec2.0, but I do use the 90-250 with the teleconverter. That gives me a 500mm equivalent used handheld with IS on, often at much lower shutter speeds (say 1/250) and an acceptable rate of good results. I do find the C-AF Lock = On (P90 of E-3 manual, Customizing..) is a useful setting, it means the focus point remains where I set it, even if an unusually deep breath wobbled the camera onto an area of better contrast.

(oh and if you wear glasses, varifocal are a No-No for long tele lenses, you can get away with them for shorter distances but...)

Nick

francois
9th June 2011, 11:36 PM
Tthe current issue of Amateur Photographer comes with a graduated cardboard so you can test the AF of your camera. Perhaps you should try it?

Ulfric M Douglas
10th June 2011, 05:40 AM
That first sample picture is SO bad, maybe the thing really does need a repair.
Was it the same lens attatched when the camera had its fall?

birdboy
10th June 2011, 06:59 AM
Ulfric

Yes it was the same lens. I am begining to think that the problem could be with using CAF and that SAF would have been a better choice for that subject.

Thanks

John

birdboy
10th June 2011, 07:12 AM
Nick

I am very interested to hear that you use your 90-250mm with the EC20 but not the 50-200mmswd. Is that because of the better glass and f stop of 5.6 compared to 7.1 with the swd combo? Handheld and using IS wow have you any pictures in your gallery of birds taken with this setup? You say 500mm equivalent which I take as 1000mm 35mm equivalent thats some magnification.

I am looking to get a better lens setup specifically for taking birds some distance. I was looking at the prime Ed 300mm lens but with all things there will have to be compromise, sharpness/price/weight. I was thinking about the groups hiring option to test the prime lens if I can convince myself that there is nothing wrong with performance of my equipment just the way I have been using it.

Thanks for help.
John

Nick Temple-Fry
10th June 2011, 11:42 AM
Nick

I am very interested to hear that you use your 90-250mm with the EC20 but not the 50-200mmswd. Is that because of the better glass and f stop of 5.6 compared to 7.1 with the swd combo? Handheld and using IS wow have you any pictures in your gallery of birds taken with this setup? You say 500mm equivalent which I take as 1000mm 35mm equivalent thats some magnification.

There is no real reason I don't use the ec2.0 with the 50-200, others do, but it does require quite a lot of light towards the long end.

These were taken with the 90-250 ec2.0

http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/506/thumbs/P2070857.jpg (http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=30692)

http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/506/thumbs/PC019903_DxO.jpg (http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=28915)

There are quite a few of us managing 500mm (ok 1000 in old money) handheld. (see for instance PeterD and his Sigma)

Renting, or at least trying out the lens at an e-group meet is quite a good idea, both the 300mm and the 90-250 are big heavy beasts.

Nick

birdboy
10th June 2011, 12:25 PM
Nick

These are really good pictures, I only wish I could appraoch that standard with the combo.

Were these taken handheld F7.1 and IS1? Which focus mode SAF CAF MF and which focus point.

Its when I see pictures such as yours that I question if my setup is faulty.

Thanks
John

Ross the fiddler
10th June 2011, 12:33 PM
Ulfric

Yes it was the same lens. I am begining to think that the problem could be with using CAF and that SAF would have been a better choice for that subject.

Thanks

John

That was my first thought. I think it is a bigger ask to use C-AF with the EC-20 (as a darker lens combination) & did I read it correct, are you also using fine point focusing? I would think that is better when picking out a bird from amongst the leaves (& only with S-AF), but I would use the twin cross sensors (normal sensitivity) for normal shots for a more reliable chance of getting focus lock.

Hope you get better results with all these suggestions from everybody.

*chr

Nick Temple-Fry
10th June 2011, 12:55 PM
Nick


Were these taken handheld F7.1 and IS1? Which focus mode SAF CAF MF and which focus point.


Thanks
John

A summary of the exif is in the gallery (the little camera symbol). My normal mode of shooting is C-AF single point with sensitivity set to small, can't remember which focus point was used. These would all have been taken handheld with IS 1.

Nick

birdboy
10th June 2011, 06:21 PM
To all I would like to say a thank you for your help in helping me understanding what I had thought was a faulty camera.

Putting what I had digested from your replies into camera settings and blessed with a glorious sunny evening I took the following with the 50-200mm SWD plus EC20, handheld with IS1.

While its not up to Nicks example with the 90-2500mm + EC20 lens I think this is the best I can espect with this combo?


Thanks again
John

The Exit info is;
Hardware Info
Model E3
Camera ID Olympus Digital Camera
Lens Information Olympus 50-200mm F2.8-3.5SWD + EC20
Software used Olympus Master 2.30W

Shooting Information
Shooting Mode A (Aperature Priority
Focal Length 400.0mm
Focal Length(equ) 800.0mm
Shutter 1/250 sec
F. No F7.0
Exposure Comp 0.0EV
Flash OFF
Whitebalance Auto
PICTURE MODE NATURAL
Saturation 0
Contrast 0
Sharpness 0
Gradation AUTO
Colour Space Adobe RGB (1998)
Metering ModeESP(ESP+AF)
ISO Sentivity 640
Focus Mode Single AF
Macro Off
Drive Single frame
EXT. WB DETECT ON
Image Stability IS1

Zuiko
10th June 2011, 06:41 PM
I still think you should be getting significantly better from that combination. Does anyone have some samples from the 50-200mm/EC20 they can post for John?

peak4
10th June 2011, 08:48 PM
I still think you should be getting significantly better from that combination. Does anyone have some samples from the 50-200mm/EC20 they can post for John?

I can probably come up with a couple
Little Bee-Eater - Merops orientalis taken from the back of a stationary but rocking Landrover with folks moving about in it. Isn't IS clever
Exposure 0.013 sec (1/80)
Aperture f/7.0
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 200
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4794976222_56baa45873_z.jpg

Malabar Pied Hornbills - Anthracoceros coronatus, cropped and taken from a moving Landrover in Yala National Park, Sri Lanka.
Exposure 0.002 sec (1/640)
Aperture f/7.0
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 200
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4794341529_8ba5c89561_z.jpg

Spotted Deer - Cervus axis
Exposure 0.025 sec (1/40)
Aperture f/7.0
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 200
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4794340767_3eab7ced06_z.jpg

There's probably quite a few more of varying quality in the Sri Lanka gallery from my signature below.

birdboy
10th June 2011, 09:55 PM
Bill Wow!!

I feel very depressed now and convinced there is something not working properly.

To recap.

I have tried S-AF C-AF MF
I have tried AF area; single normal, single small, five points.

I have tried 50-200mmswd with / without EC20 and the 12-60mm SWD.

I have tried Handheld with IS off and IS1 and on a tripod using RM-1.

I have tried mirror lock on at 2sec 3 sec 10 sec.

None of these appears to have made a significant difference. I get more or less the same standard image. It shows up worst when using the EC20.

I have not applied any post picture tweaking.

I just want a sharp picture in focus.

So my test is this. Starling subject 4m away using 50-200mm SWD on a tripod (RSP CF with Gitzo head 2180) IS off. Focus using S-AF, single point normal, RM-1 to take shot. i.e rock solid camera no hands.

And here is the result. Would this be acceptable or should I expect better definition, I suspect not.
1563
1564

Thanks again
John

Nick Temple-Fry
10th June 2011, 10:32 PM
Well the starlings look reasonable, I wonder if a slightly higher shutter speed may have helped as these are moving targets.

The following three are taken with the 50-200 (mk1) ec2.0, but on an E-PL1.

http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/500/P3133518.jpg (http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/35102)

This first was handheld with manual focus and taken as test, as I was not happy with the performance of the camera/lens combination

http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/500/P3133520.jpg (http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/35103)

Same shot with C-AF

http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/500/P3133520crp.jpg (http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/35104)

and a 100% crop of the second shot.

All just converted from RAW.

I hope this demonstrates what the combination of the 50-200 and the ec2.0 is capable of, and also shows the advantage of tests in good light of static objects.

Nick

gregles
10th June 2011, 10:47 PM
Have you carried out a firmware update?

I was having very similar issues with the E30 and 70-300. All other lenses were crisp and sharp but the images from the 70-300 were exactly as you are displaying. A firmware update resolved the issue for me, thankfully, and it was very easy to do.

Greg

David M
11th June 2011, 12:26 AM
Focus using S-AF, single point normal, RM-1 to take shot. i.e rock solid camera no hands.

Thanks again
John

That's not necessarily the best way to test a long lens, the mirror flipping up can cause vibration.

birdboy
11th June 2011, 09:07 AM
OK Dave mirror lock test.

I took the following picture using just the 50-200mm SWD lens on the tripod using remote control RM-1 and a mirror lock of 3secs @200mm 1/1250 sec F3.5 ISO100 and normal single point focus. I also took manual focus and it seemed to make no difference.
F3.5
1566

For some reason I then took a picture changing the aperature to F11 @200mm 1/320sec ISO 320.

How does letting in less light give a sharper picture!
1567

So I repeated the test with the EC20 @400mm 1/320 sec F7 ISO 160.

Same poor result.
1568


Next at F11 with EC20 @400 1/250sec F11 ISO 500

What a difference.
1569

Does this indicate a problem with the aperture or is there a another explaination? So how does letting in less light give a sharper picture am I being thick and missing something?

Thanks
John

David M
11th June 2011, 09:49 AM
So do you have a protective filter on the lens?

Zuiko
11th June 2011, 09:54 AM
A smaller aperture creates a wider depth of field, so that on a subject like this more of it will appear to be in focus and also it will help disguise focusing errors by the camera/lens combination. Also stopping down usually improves the lens performance, although by f11 (on Four Thirds) quality is normally starting to be compromised by diffraction.

Having said all that, the 50-200mm is usually remarkable sharp even wide open, although stopping down a tad would normally be recommended with the EC20. For whatever reason, your camera/lens are not performing as we would expect. The only way to solve this might be to borrow another lens and/or body from someone local or bite the bullet and hire from the forum, in order to determine which is causing the problem.

birdboy
11th June 2011, 09:57 AM
So do you have a protective filter on the lens?

Yes Dave I have a Hoya UV filter mainly to protect the lens.

John

peak4
11th June 2011, 09:59 AM
Do you have a Rocket Blower or similar?
I've had some strange out of focus shots in the past like this and cured them by blowing a bit of fluff out of the AF sensor in the bottom of the camera body.
It is in the bottom of the throat, just behind the lens mount, below the mirror.
You may need to CAREFULLY lift the mirror a bit to get access.
N.B. I mean manually lift the mirror, don't use the camera's sensor cleaning option oryou risk blowing dust onto the SSWF.
Only use a hand powered blower, not a compressed air can or you may knock something out of alignment, and don't use a brush.
Also you didn't mention the AF mode you were using for the roof shots.
It may help if you could post images which retain the full exif info

birdboy
11th June 2011, 10:00 AM
Have you carried out a firmware update?

Greg

I have Body 1.4 Lens 1.1 EC20 1.1.

John

David M
11th June 2011, 10:01 AM
Yes Dave I have a Hoya UV filter mainly to protect the lens.

John

Take it off and run the tests again.

birdboy
11th June 2011, 10:17 AM
Do you have a Rocket Blower or similar?
I've had some strange out of focus shots in the past like this and cured them by blowing a bit of fluff out of the AF sensor in the bottom of the camera body.
It is in the bottom of the throat, just behind the lens mount, below the mirror.
You may need to CAREFULLY lift the mirror a bit to get access.
N.B. I mean manually lift the mirror, don't use the camera's sensor cleaning option oryou risk blowing dust onto the SSWF.
Only use a hand powered blower, not a compressed air can or you may knock something out of alignment, and don't use a brush.
Also you didn't mention the AF mode you were using for the roof shots.
It may help if you could post images which retain the full exif info

I would not dare to tinker with such delicate systems other than what is recommended in the manual but I have considered getting a blower for such purposes.

I Used S-AF but I did take the following using MF taking the ring in and out and using a VA-1 with the x2 to get good focus. I do not know which bit is the AF sensor but considering the MF shot I do not think that it is that that is causing the problem but thanks for the thought.

Heres the shot taken @ 400mm 1/250 sec ISO 160 MF
1572


Thanks
John

birdboy
11th June 2011, 10:49 AM
Take it off and run the tests again.

UV filter off just repeat the test with the EC20 @400mm 1/250 sec F7 ISO 200 S-AF no UV filter
1573

UV filter off just repeat the test with the EC20 @400mm 1/320 sec F11 ISO 640 S-AF no UV filter

1574

I do not think there is much difference between the two with / without filter so would rule out the filter as the problem what do you think? I ahd tried this before but was worth a re-test.

Thanks
John

David M
11th June 2011, 12:28 PM
I do not think there is much difference between the two with / without filter so would rule out the filter as the problem what do you think? I ahd tried this before but was worth a re-test.

Thanks
John

Neither shot without the filter has the sharpness I'd expect so I'm beginning to suspect the lens is at fault.

Zuiko
11th June 2011, 01:57 PM
Is there anyone in Essex with a 50-200mm who John could meet up with to try another lens? :)

Nick Temple-Fry
11th June 2011, 02:22 PM
Doubling the focal length with an ec2.0 doesn't double the resolving power, just spreads the resolution over double the area. So if the combination is at/close to being limited by the resolving power of the lens without the teleconverter but at maximum focal length then adding a teleconverter will give a notable degredation compared to shooting the same scene and cropping.

So - on a nearby chimney, though far further than I'd expect a good result birding.

http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/500/composite50200.jpg (http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/35116)

e-3, 50-200 iso 640 200% F7.1 F9 F11

http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/data/500/compositecc2050200.jpg (http://e-group.uk.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/35115)

e-3, 50-200 ec2.0 iso 640 100% F7 F9 F11

'hmm, nothing conclusive. The slight softness in the 50-200 alone can reasonably be put down to the upscaling. But at least we can assume that the resolving power of the 50-200 exceeds the E-3 sensor and that even with the optical compromise of the teleconverter the use of the ec2.0 shouldn't give a poorer quality image (of the same scene at the same distance).

Either would suggest that the OP should be getting better results, and that the combination should give better results.

So we have the following possibilities

1) General AF problem with his E-3
2) AF misalignment with the 50-200
3) AF misalignment the the 50-200 ec2.0 combination
4) Fault with the 50-200
5) Fault with ec2.0
4) poor technique (sorry:()

Test shots with another lens might reveal a general AF problem, worth trying anyway at max aperture. Conditions 2-5 seem to have been covered, at least to the limits we can achieve, the results are inconclusive.

Poor technique, well the use of a tripod and remote removes most possibilities. The tripod support for the 50-200 (at least the mk1 non swd) is known as being a bit springy so maybe that's worth eliminating.

The first post suggests that the problem also manifests itself with the 12-60, so perhaps we should see some examples from that.

One other possibility (really at the remote end), is the dioptre adjustment on the viewfinder right for your eyesight?.

Unfortunately this is beginning to look like an equipment problem, my suspicion would be the camera.

Nick

birdboy
11th June 2011, 04:43 PM
So we have the following possibilities

1) General AF problem with his E-3
2) AF misalignment with the 50-200
3) AF misalignment the the 50-200 ec2.0 combination
4) Fault with the 50-200
5) Fault with ec2.0
4) poor technique (sorry:()

Test shots with another lens might reveal a general AF problem, worth trying anyway at max aperture. Conditions 2-5 seem to have been covered, at least to the limits we can achieve, the results are inconclusive.

Poor technique, well the use of a tripod and remote removes most possibilities. The tripod support for the 50-200 (at least the mk1 non swd) is known as being a bit springy so maybe that's worth eliminating.

The first post suggests that the problem also manifests itself with the 12-60, so perhaps we should see some examples from that.

One other possibility (really at the remote end), is the dioptre adjustment on the viewfinder right for your eyesight?.

Unfortunately this is beginning to look like an equipment problem, my suspicion would be the camera.

Nick

Thanks for your work Nick thatís a very useful comparison.

I do ware glasses but for this test as I was using the VA-1 I had adjusted the diopter setting to give sharpest focus through viewfinder. I have often wondered if this has any effect on AF but came to the conclusion it does not.

I took more shots using the 12-60mm SWD at 60mm and with EC20. As before using mirror lock and RM-1.

I used another roof about half distance from the other shots. I picked slopping roofs to see if it is a focusing point problem, but I do not think it is.

First shot 60mm 1/1000 sec F4 S-AF 200% crop

1582

Second shot 60mm 1/250 F8 S-AF 200% crop

1583

Third shot 60mm 1/160 sec F11 S-AF 200% crop

1584

Fourth shot with EC20 120mm 1/250 sec F8 S-AF 100%

1585

Fifth shot 120mm 1/320 sec F11 S-AF 100%

1586

My own conclusion is that the problem is with the cmaera as both lenses have similar symptons and that the fault is related to the aperture. Anyone agree?

Not having a lot of confidence with Oly system support as they had already had the camera back and said no problem what should I do now. Try again but how do I describe the problem? Any suggestions?

All your help has been an education to me and I thank for that help. I am convinced there is a problem and that for a camera of this specification I should be getting much better shots.

John

peak4
11th June 2011, 09:17 PM
John, I'm sure it's no consolation, but you're not the only one.
It seems mine might have gone up the spout too.
http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=15166

Ho Hum :(

birdboy
13th June 2011, 07:28 PM
Well I emailed Oly "support" and got the following short reply.

"Well the f3.5 is not suitable for that shooting situation at all. F11 looks much better however if it is still not good enough set the camera Sharpness to +2."

In the mean time I have contacted some local camera clubs but their members seem to have Canon and Nikon cameras, maybe its time for me to change as well.

A disapointed with Olympus customer.

John

Zuiko
13th June 2011, 07:59 PM
Well I emailed Oly "support" and got the following short reply.

"Well the f3.5 is not suitable for that shooting situation at all. F11 looks much better however if it is still not good enough set the camera Sharpness to +2."

In the mean time I have contacted some local camera clubs but their members seem to have Canon and Nikon cameras, maybe its time for me to change as well.

A disapointed with Olympus customer.

John

Oh dear, is that it? Must say I'd have expected a bit more support than that! :eek: