PDA

View Full Version : Help my Dad, please! E 510 Sports-mode settings


Cathrine Stephansen
21st February 2011, 10:45 PM
My Dad has an E 510 that he wants to use with his 70-300mm, 14-42 and 40-150mm on a trip by ship and car this summer. I have recommended him that if he's going to get sharp images with the 70-300 standing on a ship, he is going to need a high shutter speed to get things sharp. He wants to use as few settings as possible to be able to switch quickly and have as few things as possible to worry about.

I suggested that maybe the Sports mode could be useful for birds, as it's right there on the mode wheel, and uses continuous autofocus. On my old Canon Eos 350, Sports mode uses shutter priority, but I couldn't find any detail on the Sports mode on the E510 to tell me what all the settings were. I looked at the menu on the camera when it was in sports mode, but I couldn't make out everything there. I would expect: Shutter priority (fast), higher ISO settings if necessary, medium-to-open aperture, continuous autofocus and several pictures per second when pressing the shutter.

I thought it might be easy for him to switch between Sports and Landscape modes, and Macro for flowers. Does anyone know these pre-set modes on the E 510? I have the E3 and E5, and use only aperture priority, shutter priority or manual modes...

the4ts
21st February 2011, 11:37 PM
I can't say anything about the Sports Mode on the E-510 as I have never used it (Sports Mode that is, not the E-510!). I can say that I have had only very, very limited success with continuous autofocus on it and just gave up with it in the end. It might work in some situations but it did not work for me / impress me. It spent far, far too long hunting for focus and generally failed to lock or locked in the 'wrong' place. Perhaps other more experienced photographers may have better advice?

Cathrine Stephansen
21st February 2011, 11:42 PM
Thanks! Just that is a very important piece of information!

Ellie
22nd February 2011, 12:08 AM
To be honest I'd recommend he turns it onto Aperture Priority, sets ISO and White Balance to auto and always uses the widest possible aperture for the lens he's using. That way he'll get the fastest shutter speed for the conditions. He should also be able to use the EV settings.

I've tried using Sports mode and also Shutter Priority with less than good results, but that's probably me rather than the camera because I know some people can use both very successfully.

Using A rather than 'Sport' I believe you can choose more settings yourself, rather than the camera making the decisions for you.

CAF can, sometimes, hunt if the subject is small and is already moving, so he could lose the shot he's hoping for.

Oh :o but I haven't got an E510 ... I tend to use my E-30 most of the time.

Cathrine Stephansen
22nd February 2011, 08:39 AM
I agree with you. I'm an A person myself. I like to have control of depth of field, and just check the shutter speed to see which compomises to make on ISO/aperture. I only rarely use shutter priority, I've tried it a few times when shooting birds, but even then you can get fooled. I photographed some gannets once in good light, and thought I'd get them at 1/1600 s (!). Luckily I had some taken at 1/2000 s which was the only shutter speed I got sharp images. They are incredibly fast!

If the pre-programmed ones are just going to disappoint him, it's better he doesn't use them. He's an engineer, so he'll get around the knowledge part (and he did use to own an OM-1), but seeing which settings the camera is using that is the challenge when you're switching around that's the problem, especially in poor light.

photo_owl
22nd February 2011, 09:58 AM
if he used an OM1 the only button/setting he needs to understand is the ISO one! After that it's a matter of A mode and understanding the AF mode and VF information.

avoid the pre-sets like the plague - if you want to go that route then simply putting the camera in P mode is a much better solution for the reasons you have already noted (you know what it's doing), and you could use Ps if you want to force a shutter speed improvement over and above the standard ones.

I would avoid C-AF because it requires understanding and experience to use - you have to initiate AF lock on the required subject before pressing the shutter, keep the subject within range of the selected AF point and fire when ready (normally with sequential on); all whilst holding the half press (factory settings). S-AF is much more likely to result in success IMO

I would leave IS on - but that's just me and I don't want to start another long IS thread.

Nick Temple-Fry
22nd February 2011, 11:19 AM
To be honest I'd recommend he turns it onto Aperture Priority, sets ISO and White Balance to auto and always uses the widest possible aperture for the lens he's using. That way he'll get the fastest shutter speed for the conditions.

I'd question whether he will get 'the fastest shutter speed for the conditions' - my recollection is that the camera will set the iso to the lowest possible value consistent with getting good exposure and therefore the lowest possible speed (in its view) for the focal length. Far better to dial in shutter priority and set the shutter speed at say 1/500 and leave auto iso to get the exposure right. But the 70-300 is not the fastest lens so he may end up with to high iso/noise.

Sports mode (used to use it on the e-500) is not a bad choice for flying birds.

Nick

Wally
22nd February 2011, 11:26 AM
Don’t know if this will help but… a little Noddy guide from way back in the days when I used film... digital just means you don't have to wait yonks to find out the good from the bad.


Shutter speeds for FREEZING motion

Subject Shutter Speed
People walking 1/60th second
Running 1/25th second
Cycling/fast animals or fast sports 1/250th second
Cars & Motorsports 1/500th second
Fast flowing water 1/500th second


Shutter speeds for BLURRING motion

People walking ¼ second
Fast flowing water 1/15th second
Slow moving water ¼ second
Foliage (gentle wind) ¼ second
Foliage (strong wind) 1/15th second
Cars / fast moving objects 1/60th second


Shutter speeds for PANNING

Walking or slow moving objects 1/8th second
Cycling or running 1/60th second
Fast moving animals 1/60th second
Cars and fast moving objects 1/125th second

One other point - watch out for the AF / MF switch on the side of the 300mm lens... too easy to nudge as I once discovered when flustered (my middle name). ;)

photo_owl
22nd February 2011, 12:08 PM
Don’t know if this will help but… a little Noddy guide from way back in the days when I used film... digital just means you don't have to wait yonks to find out the good from the bad.


Shutter speeds for FREEZING motion

Subject Shutter Speed
People walking 1/60th second
Running 1/25th second
Cycling/fast animals or fast sports 1/250th second
Cars & Motorsports 1/500th second
Fast flowing water 1/500th second


.......

something slightly amiss here -

faster shutter speed needed for walking than running?

overall I would suggest that these are a little on the low side for the faster activities as well - but then again they are baseline guidelines much as those for camera shake etc

given the need for 1/600th with the 70-300 at 300 anyway they all become rather meaningless too......

jdal
22nd February 2011, 12:12 PM
....
Shutter speeds for FREEZING motion

Subject Shutter Speed
People walking 1/60th second
Running 1/25th second
....

You're like me - you walk faster than you run ;)

Or am I being dim again? It's quite likely:)

Cathrine Stephansen
22nd February 2011, 03:34 PM
Don’t know if this will help but… a little Noddy guide from way back in the days when I used film... digital just means you don't have to wait yonks to find out the good from the bad.


Shutter speeds for FREEZING motion

Subject Shutter Speed
People walking 1/60th second
Running 1/25th second
Cycling/fast animals or fast sports 1/250th second
Cars & Motorsports 1/500th second
Fast flowing water 1/500th second


Shutter speeds for BLURRING motion

People walking ¼ second
Fast flowing water 1/15th second
Slow moving water ¼ second
Foliage (gentle wind) ¼ second
Foliage (strong wind) 1/15th second
Cars / fast moving objects 1/60th second


Shutter speeds for PANNING

Walking or slow moving objects 1/8th second
Cycling or running 1/60th second
Fast moving animals 1/60th second
Cars and fast moving objects 1/125th second

One other point - watch out for the AF / MF switch on the side of the 300mm lens... too easy to nudge as I once discovered when flustered (my middle name). ;)

Thanks! I think I'll print and laminate this list for my kit-bag!

pandora
23rd February 2011, 01:32 AM
I never ran an E-510 but I imagine its features and performance will be similar to the E-520.

If so, then I would recommend he use Sports mode + IS at EV -0.7 as I have found the E-520 tends to overexpose when Exposure is set at Normal.

benvendetta
23rd February 2011, 01:04 PM
Just teach him how to use the camera without relying on the preset modes!
Far, far better IMO.